Highsnobiety
Double Tap to Zoom

Tremaine Emory's Denim Tears is dropping a new collection, which to many's surprise, is free of the brand's popular Cotton Wreath motif.

Instead, Denim Tears' latest "Winter Recess" presents a new script logo decorating the latest delivery of jeans, sweaters, and sweatshirts. There's also a few pieces boasting the classic "DT" branding.

Honestly, Denim Tears' collection echoes those late 90s and early 2000s streetwear brands like Rocawear and Phat Farm, who offered similarly designed wears. Someone in the comments said the jeans looked like Apple Bottoms for men, as the gilded "DT" graced the back pockets.

Denim Tears' fans aren't against channeling or even bringing back this retro feel, per se. It seems the brand's fanbase isn't ready for the new logos (not right now, at least). The people want more Cotton Wreath.

"I just want to order another Cotton Wreath sweatsuit. Restock it. That's what we want," one commenter lamented. "When are ya gonna restock what the people want SMH?" another asked.

The Cotton Wreath was a hit before its even more explosive 2023 year. Stylish presences like A$AP Rocky, Bella Hadid, and Cardi B had been rocking Emory's jeans, baring the unmistakable motif all over.

Then came 2023: Denim Tears' Cotton Wreath is everywhere — not just its jeans. The label's sweatsuits became a certified hit, drawing an insane crowd during a pop-u and later selling out during an online launch.

Those who weren't lucky enough to cop the lounge-y Cotton Wreath pieces were naturally met insane resale prices, $500+ to be specific (hoodies retailed for $210, by the way).

Sure, the Cotton Wreath is cool and a large part of the brand's identity. But let's be clear: Denim Tears isn't just its Cotton Wreath.

Denim Tears had equally buzzy, Cotton Wreath-free pieces, with help from Cactus Plant Flea Market and Dr. Martens. But there's also been some nice non-collaborative polos, sweaters, and even clean tailored options, decorated in the Pan African flag, Black Madonnas, DT-fied Ralph Lauren logos, and sometimes, very little graphics, allowing the craftsmanship to speak for itself.

To be honest, that's the Denim Tears that I gravitated towards.

The Cotton Wreath is undoubtedly hot right now, but some expressd the want for more beyond the everywhere branding. The question then becomes: can Denim Tears find another hit in a new logo?

Denim Tears certainly seems to be pushing for something new, especially with Tremaine Emory exiting his Supreme role and thus, placing his focus back on his brand.

Denim Tears' "Winter Recess "DT" logos may not be exactly every Denim Tears' fans cup of tea right now, but it's definitely a start in evolving beyond the Cotton Wreath and tapping back into its core.

Some say this is the mark of the brand's falloff. Others are stacking up their wishlist with Denim Tears' new drop. Regardless, new Denim Tears logo alert — and fans can catch the collection on December 12 on Denim Tears' website.

Editor's note (December 12): Tremaine Emory confirmed the inspiration behind the Winter Recess collection was a pair of Tom Ford's Gucci jeans from the 90s.

We Recommend
  • Etched Denim, a G-STAR Collection Inspired by Rembrandt
    • Style
    • sponsored
  • Nike's New Denim Dunks Are Quietly Stylish (Crisp, Too)
    • Sneakers
  • Even the Jordan 4 Gets a Crisp New Pair of Denim Jeans
    • Sneakers
  • ARMEDANGELS Is Your New Denim Dealer This Fall
    • Style
    • sponsored
  • Jamie xx’s New Album Wears Wavy Tekla Homeware
    • Style
What To Read Next
  • The North Face Is Full-on Fashion Now, Purses & All
    • Style
  • ONE TO WATCH: A Moment with Sam Ross at the Hublot x SR_A 3.0 Launch
    • Watches
    • sponsored
  • Was John Galliano Too Galliano for Margiela?
    • Style
  • Inside the 700-Page Book Breaking Down 250 Years of Birkenstock Brilliance (EXCLUSIVE)
    • Sneakers
  • HOKA’s Chunky, Do-It-All Sneaker Is Now... Extra Chunky
    • Sneakers
  • John Galliano Cryptically, Abruptly Departed Maison Margiela — What's Next?
    • Style