In case you haven’t heard: It’s unbearably scorching hot in Paris. On June 23, France recorded its hottest day on record and the country is fast running out of AC units. It’s all anyone on the ground at Paris Fashion Week can talk about, and while Dior tried to avert any heatwave-induced hiccups by pushing its Spring/Summer 2027 menswear show to an early 9 a.m. slot, the record-breaking weather was still top of mind. 

Some attendees had to leave mid-show as the heat was overwhelming, the whole crowd was frantically fanning itself, and the first looks that waltzed through the old country manor Dior rented, felt like a knowing nod to the extremity of the moment.

They were suits, a central aspect of Dior’s canon that Jonathan Anderson is yet to thoroughly explore in his first year leading the brand. But they weren’t suits as you know them.

The first double-breasted blazer was so thin it barely existed, its sheer pinstripe navy fabric loosely falling over the white untucked shirt beneath.

Then came a checkered grey version that sat somewhere between summer pajamas and business attire, followed by an equally lightweight checkered beige variation. These are the suits this weather necessitates. 

Forget your linens! Extreme times call for summer suiting to hit new extremes. Dior hit the brief with two-pieces that’re so thin and airy you can barely see them. 

Once the heatwave-ready summer suits were out of the way, it was time for more Jonathan Anderson lessons in tailoring. 

In his first two Dior Homme collections, the endlessly imaginative designer occasionally toyed with Edwardian-style tuxedos and exaggerated the proportions of Dior’s signature bar jacket. Now, spliced between oversized shorts, which are quickly becoming one of his Dior signatures, and faux-repaired patchwork denim that continues a wider menswear trend from this season, the designer had a more far-reaching vision for Dior suiting. 

As often happens in Anderson’s shows, it was a bombardment of disparate and inventive ideas. Long strands of fabric and jewels swung from the bottom of a blazer that appeared to disintegrate towards the bottom, thick oversized collars swung around the top of boxy double-breasted blazers, and dickie bows with dress shirts paired with shiny silver pants.

It felt more like Dior Homme shows of yesteryear, when Kris Van Assche focused his attention on sharp tailoring and the highlight of Kim Jones’ shows were pastel blazers and their trailing sashes. While Anderson has delivered great sneakers and splashy shows, this was the first time evening attire really felt like a main focus. As a result, it was the menswear collection where Anderson’s vision felt most in tune with Dior Homme’s oeuvre.

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