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In the world of perfume, everything old is new again. Even the most abstract, obscure, and novel-sounding scents reference a fragrant precursor. Take, for instance, trendy gourmands like Snif’s Crumb Couture or Kayali’s Yum Pistachio Gelato — they can be traced back to Mugler Angel (1992), which ushered in the advent of indulgent, unapologetically sweet perfumes. Just like genetic traits have a tendency to skip a generation or two before resurfacing, so do fragrance trends.

So, what does the next generation of ‘fumes smell like? Ahead, six retro perfume notes poised to make a comeback in 2024.

Lavender

With its associations with aromatherapy and DIY soaps, lavender usually conjures farmer’s markets over fine fragrance. But with the support of both Taylor Swift and Le Labo, the purple plant’s street cred has been boosted, leading me to believe that The Great Lavender Shift is finally upon us. New takes on the note, like Le Labo’s Lavande 31, are breaking lavender out of its camphoric, soapy rut — in 2024, we might just see it transcend its Provençal roots once and for all. 

AHEAD OF THE CURVE: Le Labo Lavande 31, Andrea Maack Supernova, Maison D’ETTO Noisette, CELINE Rimbaud

ANCESTORS: Caron Pour Un Homme, Dana Love’s Baby Soft

Myrrh

Diet Coke by Olay might have been a parody, but Saturday Night Live was onto something. In 2023 alone, Coca-Cola was the inspiration behind no fewer than eight different perfume launches. The note shared between all of them? Myrrh, a gum resin whose aroma lies somewhere between bitter coffee, sassafras, and molasses. Its use in fragrance dates all the way back to Ancient Egypt — it was reportedly one of the main ingredients in Cleopatra’s perfume, making its comeback a true-blue retro revival. While myrrh is often used as a base note to ground more prominently featured ingredients, I predict the resin will take a starring role in this year’s upcoming launches. 

AHEAD OF THE CURVE: Creed Carmina, Tom Ford Myrrhe Mystère, Le Labo Myrrhe 55, Headspace Myrrhe

ANCESTORS: YSL Opium, Aramis, Robert Piguet Bandit, Coco Chanel

Honey & beeswax

Hot on the heels of the rise of the unconventional gourmand (or the “Avant-Gourmand,” as I put it in my recap of 2023 in fragrance), honey is perfectly positioned to become the next big it-note. Depending on the context, honey can skew saccharine and syrupy, floral and green, or even smutty and animalic — it’s one of perfumery’s more mercurial notes, and much of its fun is owed to its unpredictability. It doesn’t hurt that Beyoncé, the Queen B herself, re-entered the celebrity fragrance chat with a perfume best described as a sticky blast of honey.

AHEAD OF THE CURVE: Beyoncé Cé Noir, Guerlain Tobacco Honey, Kilian Can’t Stop Loving You, Giardini di Toscana Bianco Latte

ANCESTORS: Dior Poison, YSL Kouros, Lancôme Magie Noire, Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille

Freesia

If trends actually operate on a 20-year cycle, freesia’s revival is long overdue. The funnel-shaped flowers smell like a cross between petals, white tea, and strawberries. Sure, the last decade has seen myriad perfumes containing an inconsequential percentage of freesia, but I crave the freesia soliflore, a term used to describe fragrances mimicking the scent of a single flower.

AHEAD OF THE CURVE: La Perla Possibilities, Versace Pour Femme Dylan Purple

ANCESTORS: Gap Dream, Ralph Cool, Bath & Body Works Freesia Body Splash, J’Adore Dior

Peach

Pantone’s 2024 color of the year is Peach Fuzz, so it’s only apropos that the stone fruit is reentering the fragrance zeitgeist. I predict we’ll see it spotlighted in some unexpected ways: Less lotion-y, peachy skin musks and more Old Hollywood glamor, purring animalics, and decadent, drizzled desserts.

AHEAD OF THE CURVE: L’Artisan A Fleur De Pêche, Maison Crivelli Patchouli Magnetik, Gritti Gossip Night

ANCESTORS: Guerlain Mitsouko, Lancôme Trésor, Robert Piguet Fracas, Femme Rochas