Highsnobiety

The white button-up is a menswear classic. A blank canvas that adheres to the identity of the wearer, it’s the wardrobe staple that continues to endure far into the future.

For its newest collection, expert German shirtmaker Seidensticker elevates the timeless garment into a modular capsule with the help of brothers Andreas and Kostas Murkudis.

The former founded ANDREAS MURKUDIS an eponymous concept store that has become one of Berlin’s most prominent, curated high-end style destinations, while the latter was once the right-hand man to Helmut Lang, eventually moving on to consult for Balenciaga.

But what brings this historic German shirtmaker to work with one of the most influential fashion hubs in Berlin? The collaboration is born out of mutual respect, Seidensticker creative director, Marc Biggemann, reached out to MURKUDIS to assist in repositioning the brand for an ever-changing world, as Biggemann explains, “I’ve always been inspired by the vision, straightforwardness and consistency of the brand. Tradition and vision are wonderful partners.”

This blend of classic tradition and forward-thinking vision, has cumulated in a collection perfectly tailored for contemporary icons: minimal, gender-free and socially, globally and stylistically conscious.

Literally using the archetypical shirt as a neutral white canvas, Seidensticker / MURKUDIS drew upon the current turbulent times for inspiration, Biggemann says, “Major global issues are also in a permanent state of flux, and a call for a radical realignment of the economy and society, in which habitual consumption habits are being replaced by new, socially responsible ways of consuming. A global movement has emerged from this need to position oneself clearly. What we’re seeing is the tendency for a single individual to be able to shape the future on a large scale, providing they have the right idea.”

You would be right in thinking what this has to do with a dress shirt, but as Biggemann points out, “Traditional dress occasions and gender roles are playing an ever decreasing role in fashion consumption. Today, it’s much more about finding a balance between seduction and a sense of responsibility to create a new optimism of change.” Seidensticker / MURKUDIS have pushed the common notion of how a dress shirt should look and be worn, reinventing it as the uniform for a generation more focused on hope and positive change than extreme consumerism and riding up the career ladder at the expense of their peers.

The range features three different shapes (fitted, classic, and long) that can either be worn alone or layered. Each comes in either black, white, or dark blue and is made of premium poplin, wool, and silk materials, additional defining features include overlapping oversized pockets and numerous playful and decorative design details. When describing the collection designer Kostas Murkudis says, “Not only did we not want to exclude anyone, we wanted to simultaneously involve and address everyone. It’s not about gender, age, or size. It’s more about offering people a platform with which to express themselves according to their inclinations and needs.”

With this collaboration, Seidensticker / MURKUDIS wanted to go, “Beyond the superficial to give the wearer a sense of identity whilst deconstructing rigid norms.” At the same time as breaking free from the confines of the regular white shirt, the collection retains a distinct sense of timelessness designed not to change the world but adorn the torsos of those who will shape the future.

The capsule collection is available exclusively at the ANDREAS MURKUDIS store in Berlin, Postdamer Strasse 81, and at selected national and international retailers from mid-2020. Follow the latest news on the Seidensticker website.

 

  • Photographer: Jose Cuevas
  • 1st Assistant: Kwame Boama
  • Stylist: Rudolfs. A Packevics
  • Hair & MUA: Aennikin
  • Hair & MU Assistant: Nadine Hochwieser
  • Art Director: Josh Wilson
  • Artworks: Birgit Cauer
Words by Whitley Way