Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2019 is currently taking place in the French capital. Head to our bespoke landing page to find all the latest news from the industry’s best houses, brands, and designers.

There’s always something romantic about the brooder. Sure, the moody goth trope has become meme fodder in the age of Twitter and Instagram, but the dark fashion fan remains as relevant as ever to Japanese designers such as Jun Takahashi of UNDERCOVER and Takahiro Miyashita of TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.

This time last year, the two lifelong friends shared the stage at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, infusing the oft-staid menswear trade show with a youthful relevance, a welcome departure from the norm of suits and bench-made shoes.

This season, Miyashita follows Takahashi — who made his Paris menswear runway debut for Spring/Summer 2019 — showing his first collection at Paris Fashion Week. The clothing wasn’t for the faint of heart, and from the jump showed off the singular vision that has made Miyashita a cult favorite around the globe.

Beyond the poem-emblazoned patches and existential phrases like “I LIVE NOW” on the backs of garments, it became clear why Miyashita’s menswear formula ticks all the right boxes from a designer standpoint.

Starting out with items like peacoats, workwear coveralls, topcoats, and military jackets, the designer uses them as a foundation to layer on the kind of bells and whistles aficionados use to stand apart from the crowd. Miyashita’s functional straps and zipper details allow for a certain degree of customization, leaving it up to the wearer to reinterpret garments if they so choose.

Of course, in the context of a fashion show, it can be hard to extrapolate the singular beauty of these items as styled with an array of balaclavas, bunny boots (another big reference across the board this season), and geometric camouflage baselayers.

But when presented on their own merits at a showroom or in a store, TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist garments possess an undeniable appeal that instantly draws consumers searching for something a little familiar, yet when viewed up close are revealed as so much more than meets the eye.

Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, Heron Preston makes his runway debut, including new Nike collab.

Words by Jian DeLeon
Editorial Director

Jian DeLeon is the Editorial Director at Highsnobiety. He is based in New York.