The Brands and Cultural Pioneers That Shaped Youth Culture in 2020
When Highsnobiety set out to create our debut edition of The NEXT 20 with our friends at LYST — the world's biggest fashion shopping platform — at the start of this year, the pandemic hadn’t disrupted the entire world. When it did, the rules in every market changed. So too in all creative industries where physical events, launches, and gatherings have been fundamental marketing moments for brands and artists for decades.
And so for The NEXT 20 — an in-depth quarterly report ranking the next-generation brands and cultural pioneers on the rise — we had to dig deeper to discover who and what drive influence in youth culture today, and tomorrow. We set out to improve the way forecasting in the fashion industry is done. To do this, we gave the power to the public, through global data collection, and enlisted external industry experts to go beyond the personal opinion of our editors alone.
A first of its kind, and by no means conclusive, The NEXT 20 combines quantitative data — a custom made algorithm combining sales and search metrics from over 100 million annual shoppers, social tracking, and Google data — and qualitative findings, obtained through short interviews and active feedback from an advisory board of founders, consultants, stylists, buyers, and executives.
We found that the most innovative leaders of tomorrow embrace this change in what drives influence today, it fuels them. They even saw it coming long before their industries were disrupted and the world moved online. It’s what’s always distinguished them from the old gatekeepers of authority — traditional media, big retailers and celebrities — who no longer hold the same power they had before.
During lockdown, they cleverly took advantage of the playing field democratizing, and surpassed third parties to directly speak with, and listened to, their audiences. They used the rise of localization caused by the global pandemic to their advantage, while they simultaneously broadcasted new projects and messages digitally, and found ways to stick out through the noise.
They’re just a few tactics The NEXT 20 brands and cultural pioneers — an emerging group whose power is their authority, not necessarily their reach. And who are the first wave to drive culture forward — are adopting to stay ahead. Those that can innovatively shift our time, attention and subsequently our dollars towards their new launches, often by driving real change that benefits the greater good and makes us grow as individuals, win. The rest will fade.
As always, those making up our NEXT 20 Brands, and NEXT 20 Cultural Pioneer rankings range in size, following, age, geography, culture, and creative background, yet are unified by their current — and expected — impact on youth culture, each having found a core global community of influential, devoted fans.
This year, we launched three successful editions of The NEXT 20 this year, in which we spotlighted the innovators that defined youth culture at different points in time across the fashion, music, entertainment, art, and activism spaces. For our final act of 2020, we celebrate those on the rise who defined this year culturally, and in business.
We look back at the emerging personalities and brands who wrote their own rules, some of whom made us think differently, pay attention, and reconsider. Others who made us laugh, get motivated, and gave us a simple escape, even for a minute. Most of all they challenged the formulaic blueprint set by mega brands and talents, respectively leading the charge and ultimately setting the stage for those who come next.
20 BRANDS of 2020
That the desirability drivers that once made up “luxury” — including superior quality, exclusivity, and a distinct design aesthetic — are no longer enough to buoy the next generation of consumers, everyone knows by now. And still many brands, regardless of their global footprint or heritage, find difficulty in keeping up with what does authentically engage with shoppers today.
This year’s winning brands demonstrated their understanding that culture is not something set in stone, but rather a dynamic built on a day-to-day basis in constant conversation. With the world going into global lockdown, the most successful brands this year offered authentic narratives, adapted to new ways of working, and did not broadcast solely to consumers, but also to the broader culture that surrounded them.
They favored community-driven content over glossy, big-budget social media campaigns, inconsistent influencer PR, and static product shots aimed to strictly sell. In doing so, they changed from sellers of product, to creators of culture, media, and looked at a reality outside of fashion at a time when none of us were really concerned with fashion in the first place. These are brands that aren’t waiting for the wider fashion industry to invite them to their “honorable table”, and instead create their own. Those are exactly the brands we celebrate with The NEXT 20.
The most grounded brands actively supported their communities, and used any resource at hand. They opened their doors to those in need, and fought for their communities when many fashion brands with means well beyond that of their turned a blind eye in the early days.
Those that drove genuine change and made a substantial impact included Kerby-Jean Raymond’s Pyer Moss, who donated thousands of PPE units to COVID-19 frontliners, while also setting up financial aid for small Black-owned businesses, and turning his office into a donation center. He later announced the creation of ‘Your Friends in New York’ — a new platform in partnership with Kering designed to empower the next generation of innovators.
Then there was Brain Dead founder Kyle Ng, who’s collaborative t-shirt with musician Dev Hynes raised over $500,000 for Black Lives Matter charities within days of its announcement, and Awake NY’s Angelo Baque raised thousands for New York’s immigrant coalition and other local businesses. Meanwhile London-based Samuel Ross, founder of A-COLD-WALL*, provided business-saving grants for independent Black-owned businesses, while Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo banded together with nine leading streetwear brands to raise funds for BLM.
All efforts have put these brands on the forefront of consumer’s mind once again, yet more importantly, and unquantifiably, it showed its contemporaries that fighting for what’s right should not be considered a marketing and publicity risk, but a norm.
But brands also found space to innovate with their product. Zooming in on brand collaborations, many on this list pushed what has become an incredibly overstatured, and often boring, art of collaborations to new heights. Whether it was Telfar x UGG, Fear of God x Zegna, Amina Muaddi x Fenty, Pyer Moss x Reebok, CPFM x Nike, Aime Leon Dore x Porsche, Daily Paper x Van Gogh, each brand innovated what a collaboration should look like in a post-collaboration era.
All these brands created successful partnerships by mastering the golden mix of choosing unexpected partners, smart distribution, clever digital-first seed advertising that often included members of their community, and most of all created products that blended the world of each collaborator seamlessly into a single product which couldn’t have existed without each individual player. It went far beyond slapping a simple logo on a hero item. The 360 degree strategy to the respective collaborations, with a media-first approach, set up a template of what we can expect in the new year.
So where do accidental fashion brand Arc’Teryx, Salmon, and Hoka One One fall into place? Well, these brands couldn’t be more relevant for this year and they aren’t accidental winners. With lockdown restrictions being implemented in nearly every country in the world, running has been on the rise as outdoor exercise was one of the only exceptions to staying inside.
Understandably so, with global lockdown persuading many runners, both fanatics and first-timers, to productively utilize their limited freedom for physical exercise to trek around local neighborhoods, big and small. According to NPD’s Matt Powell, the performance running market in the US alone is up 30 percent compared to May last year.
With Salmon’s newly-implements collaboration and distribution strategy it saw an increase of over 600 percent in pageviews on Lyst and was up 91 percent in social mentions compared to this time last year, while Arc’Teryx’ adoption by culturally influential figures including Kanye West, Frank Ocean, and Virgil Abloh — the brand recently also collaborated with Palace and has a partnership with Jil Sander on the way — traditional outerwear and running brands found relevance among a younger, more style-focused, demographic. They’re here to stay.
Telfar
- Increased 1011% in average monthly Google searches.
- Introduced a highly successful ‘Bag Security Program’ for its ‘Bushwick Birkin’ bags.
- 695% growth in pageviews on Lyst compared to last year.
Jacquemus
- “Jacquemus managed to remain creative and active non-stop. He did one of the most visually impactful shows of the year, in the middle of a wheat field, as well as many digital activations and strong capsules. He’s a designer who listens to reality and adapts himself, that’s strangely quite rare,” says Sarah Andelman.
- Gained over 1m IG followers.
- Up 82% in average monthly Google searches.
Fear of God
- Launched its highly anticipated collaboration with Zegna.
- Up 73% in social mentions.
- Expanded its ‘Essentials’ line into new categories and markets.
Salomon
- 634% growth in pageviews on Lyst compared to last year.
- “Not only does the brand have the most carefully thought technologies and highest functionality, but they also never stop exploring new possibilities for all angles, from harsh weather to daily city life,” says Mitsuhiro Kubo.
- Increased 91% in social mentions.
Arc’Teryx
- “Over the past 12 months the Canadian brand has found new interest in the streetwear space. Despite its growing presence within this new cohort, Arc’teryx has remained dedicated to performance, quality and its own direct community,” says Sam Trotman.
- Collaborated with Palace, and has one with Jil Sander on the way.
- Become a favorite brand of Virgil Abloh, Kanye West and Frank Ocean.
Marine Serre
- Beyoncé wore a logoed catsuit for her viral ‘Black Is King’ visual album.
- “Marine Serre has undoubtedly been one of the fashion driving forces in 2020. Her message goes beyond fashion, politics, or aesthetics. Her radical call for love is sharper, and more accurate than ever,” says Serge Carreira.
- Up 152% in pageviews on Lyst compared to last year.
A-Cold-Wall*
- 452% growth in pageviews on Lyst compared to last year.
- Provided grants program for independent Black-owned businesses.
- “This year has seen a turbo-charged version of Samuel Ross on work that he has done both with ACW* and on a wider social level,” says Stefano Martinetto.
Pyer Moss
- “Brands and companies too often shy away from making statements around basic human rights, for fear of appearing ‘political’. Pyer Moss is an example of a brand that has only grown in popularity by proudly standing up for what they believe in, and by amplifying marginalised voices and community programs. This is what future brands need to look like,” says Leila Fataar.
- Increased 112% in searches on Lyst compared to last year.
- 83% growth in average monthly Google searches.
Amina Muaddi
- Up 854% in pageviews on Lyst compared to last year.
- “Amina makes the hottest shoes on the planet right now, with each drop creating a frenzy not seen since the days of the Marc Jacobs’ Stam bag when women were fighting each other on the shopfloor,” says Ida Petersson.
- Launched multiple successful collaborations with Rihanna’s Fenty.
Aimé Leon Dore
- Mastered the art of collaborations with its Porsche, New Balance and Clarks partnerships.
- 121% growth in searches on Lyst compared to last year.
- Increased 90% in average monthly Google searches.
Brain Dead
- “There are brands and then there’s Brain Dead. The industry can learn from the Brain Dead's ability to consistently create, curate and truly operate as a collective,” says Bhavisha Dave.
- Increased 153% in social mentions.
- Collaborative charity t-shirt with Dev Hynes raised over $500,000 within a week of launch.
AWAKE
- “AWAKE started the year out strong with collabs with Carhartt, Timberland, and Levi’s. They’re representing the essence and cultural spirit of New York whilst having a global presence. AWAKE will continue to lead the way beyond 2020,” says Marcus Paul.
- Contributed sales proceeds to New Immigrant Community Empowerment (NICE).
- 125% growth in pageviews on Lyst compared to last year.
Medea
- Increased 4047% in pageviews on Lyst compared to last year.
- Collaborated with designers Kiko Kostadinov, Peter Do, and artist Judith Bernstein.
- Up 276% in social mentions.
Daily Paper
- “Daily Paper thrived during 2020. They expanded their business and remained authentic to the brand ethos which speaks volumes, especially during a global pandemic,” says Sandrine Charles.
- Up 94% in social mentions.
- Opened its first New York City flagship store.
Wales Bonner
- “Grace Wales Bonner is one of the most quietly influential designers of the moment. Her soulful collections have grown to encompass various points of access. [She’s cemented herself] as a fixture of the new establishment of culture and fashion,” says Saam Emme.
- Launched one of the year’s best collaborations with adidas.
- Increased her IG following by 32%.
Ahluwalia
- Won the LVMH Prize and the ‘People’ category at The Fashion Awards. Also joined Guccifest as guest designer.
- 82% IG follower growth.
- Increased 53% in average monthly Google searches.
Bode
- Increased 743% in pageviews on Lyst compared to last year.
- “Bode uses its loyal customer base to maintain a kind of vertical self-sufficiency and creative freedom. Emily Bode is a rule-breaker as a woman designing mens clothes [and] there’s more to come with this one ingenious young woman,” says Julie Gilhart.
- Opened its first New York City monobrand store and won Woolmark’s Innovation Prize and the LVMH Prize.
Mowalola
- Was appointed as design director of YEEZY x Gap.
- Up 421% in average monthly Google searches.
- 151% IG follower growth.
Hoka One One
- Up 202% in pageviews on Lyst compared to last year.
- Widely expanded footwear offering beyond running.
- Increased 49% in average monthly Google searches.
Cactus Plant Flea Market
- Launched some of the year’s best sneaker collaborations with Nike.
- Up 77% in social mentions.
- 25% growth in average monthly Google searches.
20 CULTURAL PIONEERS OF 2020
Where for brands the global pandemic greatly affected foot traffic in stores, and limited runway shows, the bigger impact was on the torchbearers of our time whose occupation, income, and growth are directly connected to physicality — whether it’s appearing on TV, a sports field, or at a festival.
Keeping that connection with fans digitally across time zones is tricky. Making that switch and standing out online at a time when everyone in your space is flocking to the exact same platforms to speak to similar audiences is ever harder. Especially when social media has become a critical extension of one’s deeper contact with fans, far beyond simply a marketing tool. Today, being heard is more a strategic exercise combining top tier creative direction, timing, distribution, tone of voice, and adopting new platforms, than it is a random act.
The contents of the messaging itself have increasingly become more important than ever. Whether it’s making people laugh, getting them excited for a new launch, educating them on current affairs, or simply keeping them up to date with your life, the Cultural Pioneers that were most successful in 2020 understood the power of authenticity and remembered they’re speaking directly to real people, not viewing their follower count and engagement as mere metrics on a page.
Dominating this year’s Cultural Pioneers of 2020 list are the change agents who used their platforms to selflessly drive their respective markets towards a place where equality, transparency, and unity no longer are exceptions, but the norm. It would be naive of us to think this duality of entertainment and activism is not a snapshot look into how young people around the world are influenced today. Today, contemporary youth culture listens to, and roots for, both.
Those pushing us forward include Janaya Khan, the activist and author who co-founded Black Lives Matter Toronto and serves as an international ambassador for the Black Live Matter Network; DJ and designer Tremaine Emory who took a stance against Nike and Converse by demanding change in Nike’s corporate structure; British model and activist Munroe Bergdorf who covered TIME magazine earlier this year and has been an outspoken role model for many; Manchester United footballer Marcus Rashford who wrote an open letter to the UK government calling on them to end UK child poverty, which was credited as a major turning point in government talks; and fashion designer Aurora James, whose ‘15% Pledge’ continues to call on major retailers to pledge 15 percent of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses.
Where this group led by example and created an open space for many to discuss some of the world’s most pressing issues, the entertainers on this year’s list gave us the all too important sense of escape. Derrick Jones, better known by his stage name D-Nice, launched ‘Club Quarantine’ on Instagram Live earlier this year, drawing in viewers like Rihanna, Michelle Obama, and Lenny Kravitz who tuned in for his live DJ sessions. In March, Google searches for D-Nice spiked by 24,650 percent compared to the month before, while his IG following grew over 800 percent at the time.
Your favorite culture boy Zack Bia hosted a series of viral IG live DJ sets with comrade Pedro Cavaliere. They took it to the next level with virtual green screen backgrounds and exclusively launched Drake’s hit ‘Tootsie Slide’ on the show while a digitally-rendered iteration of Drake’s Virgil Abloh-designed Boeing flew across the DJ booth’s background. It was the closest we got to the excitement of visiting an actual club.
Kenyan internet comedian Elsa Majimbo threw it down with satirical monologues filmed at home, humorously describing the craziness of this year to her 1.3 million followers on Instagram. Meanwhile Los Angeles-based writer, producer and “the cockiest prince of quarantine” Jordan Firstman translated all the ups and downs of this year in mini sketches from the perspective of everyone from the imaginary publicist of Mike Pence’s infamous ‘fly’ to the people who refused to wear masks in public. Patia Borja, aka @patiasfantasyworld, as always, kept it real with us.
Lastly there were the musicians this year that made us remember the sweet joys of collective fandom and overall good vibes. They were both household names, and newcomers. Christopher Brent Wood, better known by his stage name Brent Faiyaz, released his critically acclaimed second studio album ‘Fuck the World’ in early February, peaking at number 20 on the US Billboard 200 chart. He later ventured into fashion, sitting front row at several New York Fashion Week shows, and modelled for Pyer Moss’ Spring/Summer 2020 show. All resulted in an exceptionally high engagement rate of 18.4 percent in the first quarter of this year. He topped our inaugural The NEXT 20 ranking back then.
Lil Durk, the Chicago-born rapper and lead member of rap collective ‘Only the Family’ which he founded in 2010, also topped our The NEXT 20 list. This time in Q3, following the launch of his fifth album, ‘Just Cause Y’all Waited 2’ of which its deluxe edition peaked at number two on the Billboard 200 chart. And then came mainstream popularity in August after he featured on Drake’s hit ‘Laugh Now Cry Later’, which debuted at number two on the Billboard Hot 100, becoming Durk’s first top 10 entry and subsequently his highest-charting song.
Durk is simply one example of the many rappers who have long been roaming under the radar and whose time for global success is now. Nigerian rapper Burna Boy released his highest-charting project to date (his fifth studio album ‘Twice as Tall’, executive produced by Diddy) August in the middle of the global pandemic. Shygirl, the London-based rapper is new to the scene, yet has big things coming her way. But that’s for next year.
Elsa Majimbo
- “Elsa Majimbo is a social star in the truest sense. She’s disrupting stereotypes with her non sugar coated social commentary leaving you in a fit of laughter and wanting more. Not all heroes wear capes. Some wear Matrix-esque glasses and eat crisps,” says Meenakshi Singh
- Reached 1m IG followers in October.
- Up 247% in social mentions.
Shygirl
- “Crushing it during the pandemic with her Ibiza antics, honest, provocative and let’s face it, down right genius songwriting, Shygirl continues to amaze, provoke and push the boundaries with a no hold barred approach that is genuinely captivating,” says Ida Petersson.
- 201% IG follower growth.
- Launched acclaimed album ‘ALIAS’.
Janaya ‘Future’ Khan
- Launched powerful ‘Sunday Sermon’ series on IG.
- Increased 831% in average monthly Google searches.
- Appeared on the covers of Highsnobiety, British Vogue, Another, Dazed, V Mag, and Out.
Tremaine Emory
- Launched socially important partnerships with Converse and Levi’s.
- Increased 124% in average monthly Google searches.
- 76% growth in social mentions.
Brent Faiyaz
- 507% increase in average monthly Google searches
- Released second studio album ‘Fuck the World’.
- IG followers increased by 243%.
Marcus Rashford
- Wrote an legislating-changing open letter to the UK government calling on them to end UK child poverty.
- Increased 123% in average monthly Google searches.
- Gained 1.5million IG followers.
Patia Borja
- Up 307% in average monthly Google searches.
- Launched database of anti-racist resources.
- 195% growth in social mentions.
Dingyun Zhang
- “Although just at the beginning of his career, Dingyun is determined to put humans and the environment first in all that he does. This is an honourable mission and he is surely taking the right steps and the right time,” says Stefano Martinetto.
- 170% IG follower growth.
- His signature puffers were worn by Rihanna, CL, and Jourdan Dunn.
Charli D’Amelio
- Reached 100m followers on Tik Tok in November.
- Gained over 30m new IG followers.
- Created #DistanceDance for charity, leading to the creation of more than 3.5m unique #DistanceDance videos.
Evan Mock
- “Hawaiian skater Evan Mock is amongst the new generation of skaters who are redefining what it means to be a skater in 2020,” says Sam Trotman.
- Up 311% in average monthly Google searches.
- Set to star as a main character in Gossip Girl’s anticipated 2021 reboot.
Burna Boy
- Released Grammy-nominated album ‘Twice as Tall’ to critical acclaim.
- Increased 331% in social mentions.
- Gained over 1.5m IG followers.
Nicole McLaughlin
- “Nicole’s creativity is limitless. Any item inspires her. Her vision is a continuous re-invention,” says Sarah Andelman.
- 137% IG follower growth.
- Increased 89% in social mentions.
DJ D-Nice
- Increased a massive 3663% in average monthly Google searches.
- “D-Nice continues to be a legendary figure in music. He literally brought the club to our homes during quarantine. He is the first DJ to have global impact during one of the most challenging times for the entire world,” says Marcus Paul.
- Gained over 2m IG followers.
Munroe Bergdorf
- “Munroe constantly stands out, but one of her most notable moments was during the global online reaction to #BLM when she called out L’Oreal for their solidarity post after they had unceremoniously dropped her from their campaign in 2017. She is one of the changemakers really making a difference to people’s lives,” says Leila Fataar.
- Appeared on the covers of TIME, Paper and Teen Vogue.
- Increased 717% in social mentions.
Aurora James
- “In the heat of Black Lives Matter movement, Aurora stood strong and launched the 15 Percent Pledge, which called on major retailers to pledge 15 percent of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses. She stood tall and gained an international notoriety for her courage,” says Julie Gilhart.
- Up 132% in average monthly Google searches.
- 79% IG follower growth.
Jordan Firstman
- Staggering IG follower growth of 7930%.
- Starred in Thom Browne’s Spring/Summer 2021 campaign video.
- Increased 650% in average monthly Google searches.
Lil Durk
- Collaborated on Drake’s hit ‘Laugh Now, Cry Later’.
- Up 266% in average monthly Google searches.
- Reached 7m IG followers before disabling his account in November.
Jill Kortleve
- Appeared on the covers of five international editions of Vogue.
- Increased 174% in average monthly Google searches.
- 133% IG follower growth.
Zack Bia
- Hosted series of viral IG live DJ sets with Pedro Cavaliere.
- Up 218% in social mentions.
- 62% IG follower growth.
Delfin Finley
- Sold out of first-ever print editions featuring model Paloma Elsesser.
- 108% IG follower growth.
- Increased 85% in average monthly Google searches.
METHODOLOGY
To determine the NEXT 20 Brands and the NEXT 20 Cultural Pioneers who defined 2020, the Highsnobiety and Lyst teams formed an advisory board of leading industry experts to consider more than 400 brands and 660 cultural pioneers over this year.
Lyst then created bespoke algorithms to analyze over 13,000 data points indicating breakout potential. The algorithms were designed to weigh the more established next gen brands and cultural pioneers fairly against those more emerging. Data considered included Google search value, social media performance, press, blog & online discussion metrics and, for the brands, proprietary insights from Lyst, world's biggest fashion shopping platform which is used by more than 100 million shoppers a year.
Data only paints part of the picture. Therefore, the NEXT 20 Brands and NEXT 20 Cultural Pioneers that emerged from the data were then reviewed once again by our editors for further commentary, adding human experience and qualitative insights to finalize our rankings.
ADVISORY BOARD
Highsnobiety Q4 is the fourth in a series of quarterly insights weeks dedicated to the business behind youth culture and what makes our market tick. For full Q4 coverage, head over to our Q4 hub.
- Words: Christopher Morency
- Lyst Editors: Katy Lubin, Peter Henderson
- Graphics: Martin Major
- Images: Tetiana Khvorostiana
- Web Design: Romano Casellini, Shaun Roach, Alessandro Lettieri
- Image Credits: Getty Images
