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We’ve seen Timberland collaborate with enough fashion houses — Jacquemus! Telfar! Louis Vuitton! — and release enough splashy A-lister fronted campaigns to know that it’s more than a boot company. In fact, its new jackets cross the line into actual luxury, no collaborator required.

Creating four-figure boots with the world’s most famous French fashion house is one thing. Releasing a four-figure leather puffer jacket as part of your inline collection? That’s a whole other kettle of fish.

The Welch Mountain Puffer Jacket is a Timberland classic, first released in 1997 as part of a holiday collection. However, as it returns 20 years later, the jacket looks almost unrecognizable. The weatherproof fabric, contrasting yellow paneling, and branding on the sleeve are replaced with supple nappa sheepskin leather.

The new puffer is all-black, decidedly more minimal, and altogether more luxurious than any of Timberland’s other jackets. And it's priced accordingly, retailing for $1,100, more than double the cost of Timberland’s second most expensive jacket, a leather blouson

The new Timberland jacket appropriately arrives with a splashy A-list campaign, with British rapper Skepta posing in the new puffer and loose black jeans tucked into classic 6” Timbs. Filmmaker Spike Lee wears a different archival Timberland jacket, the Granite State Waterproof Rain Jacket from 2000. Miyako Bellizzi, the costume designer behind the outfits in Marty Supreme and Uncut Gems, styled the shoot.

The signs were already there. At the end of last year, Timberland released its most premium 6-Inch Boot, handmade from high-grade double-tanned leather priced at $380 and upgraded its collections to be less function-focused and more preppy. 

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These Timberland collections weren’t one-offs. They’re indicative of a wider movement, where one of America’s OG workwear labels is increasingly behaving like a luxury brand.

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