R.I.P. Y/Project – Omen or One-Off?
In news that felt heartbreaking but also unsurprising against the backdrop of the industry's current climate, French label Y/Project announced it was closing down and ceasing operations.
The nearly 15 year old house, known for its genderless aesthetics and convulsive tailoring, will shutter its doors after last year's unsuccessful, months-long pursuit of finding a buyer, and the untimely passing of yet another founding member.
Shortly before, Glenn Martens stepped down as Y/Project's creative director – a job he'd held for over a decade, and was juggling with the other top position he took at Diesel in 2020. The Belgian's September exit caused major speculation over his next steps, especially in the wake of all the other designer unravellings of 2024.
The writing was on the wall though: What would end up being Y/Project's final runway presentation dates back as far as October 2023, with a subsequent Fall/Winter 2024 showing demoted to lookbook-only. It was their last collection.
Nonetheless, with superstar fans like Chappell Roan and Rihanna in their corner, it's hard to fathom how and why a company with such a unique, fleshed out point of view would struggle to keep consumers interested.
But while there are plenty of good guesses around the specificities of Y/Project's demise, the more pressing concern seems to be the implications this may have for other "smaller" businesses.
One must fear they're not the first, nor will they be the last to call it quits, in light of stifled spending, something of a cultural reconsideration of the luxury category, and the countless other crises unfolding in the world at large.
Not half a month into 2025, and we've already had to witness the viral community sabotage of an accessory icon, and a beloved indie brand's saddening farewell.
If all this is a mere harbinger, and just a taste of what's to come for fashion this year, y'all better fasten those denim undies, and prepare for what is likely to be a twisted, winding road ahead – though hopefully not one as twisted and winding as some of Y/Project's finest.
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