Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows and events from the SS17 fashion weeks.
To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 2 of Paris Fashion Week SS17. Check out yesterday’s action here.
Louis Vuitton Looked to Africa
Louis Vuitton’s SS17 show notes cited Africa as a big inspiration. Billion-dollar luxury conglomerates looking to a continent choked by poverty for inspiration is always going to be a bit touchy (not to mention ironic), but LV’s menswear designer Kim Jones grew up in Kenya and Botswana, so his homage was much less troubling than Junya Watanabe’s was back in SS16.
Touchy cultural issues aside, LV’s SS17 was just as slick, polished and expensive as you’d expect it to be. Exotic hides like ostrich and croc leather were used on statement jackets (how much do you think that ostrich leather bomber costs? What about the electric blue croc-leather trucker?), and a selection of shaggy mohair knits looked great, too. Tailored trousers with grosgrain ribbons and D-rings hanging off them were less noticeable, but equally dope.
Dinos and Jake Chapman contributed some warped imagery of African fauna — rhinos, turtles, giraffes etc. — which decorated LV’s bags (/money-spinners).
Take a look at Kim Jones’ forthcoming Nike collab, too.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Wandered in the Desert
There’s nothing particularly new to the drapey, disheveled look that is Boris Bidjan Saberi’s calling card, but in 2016’s post-YEEZY fashion landscape, it feels very now. For SS17, Boris’s doom-and-gloom was executed in some impressive fabrics — some pieces looked like they been left to rust for decades — but there’s more compelling, not to mention wearable, versions of this look out there.
Salomon trail sneakers (which we’re predicting will be a big hit in the future) added a nice touch, but overall, nothing particularly essential here — unless you’re in a tribe of nomads wandering in a post-apocalyptic wasteland, of course.
Rick Owens – The Lord of Darkness
Paris’s reigning Lord of Darkness has pretty much invented his own fashion sub-genre — there’s no doubting that many collections on the SS17 schedule would look very different were Rick not around.
Owens’ latest spring collection was a masterclass in forward-thinking, obscure tailoring. Free-flowing featherweight fabrics, billowing silhouettes and some very, very baggy trousers were order of the day here. Those trousers obscured some forthcoming adidas sneakers, we’re told. Owens’ jackets were cropped way up high, just to really emphasize his trousers’ vast silhouettes, while ghostly slate contrasted beautifully with electric yellow and rusty brown tones.
Like many of the names showing on the Paris schedule, Rick Owens is in a league all of his own, and his latest collection shows it.
No step-dancers or nudity this time, sadly. For some of Rick’s best theatrics we suggest reading this.
kolor Was kolor
kolor is the prime example of a brand that’s found its audience. The label doesn’t seem to be striving for huge expansion, nor do they reinvent the wheel every season. But what they do — sportswear-inspired technical tailoring – is world class. This season was a continuation of the core kolor themes of lightweight outerwear, suiting, cardigans (kolor loves a contrast-hem cardigan more than life itself), all with sportswear-inspired tech aspects.
There was womenswear on the runway too and, though we tried to resist the comparison, it did look very reminiscent of sacai’s Nike collaboration. Which shouldn’t be surprising, given that the Junichi Abe of kolor is married to sacai’s Chitose Abe.
kolor is a world away from the stereotypes associated with Japanese brands, invoking neither rigid workwear reproduction or zany experimentation. But that’s no bad thing. This season kolor won’t convert that many new fans, but it’ll definitely keep anyone already on board.
Yohji Yamamoto Showed Why He’s a Step Beyond
A designer of Yohji’s stature doesn’t need to prove himself. After all, how many designers can boast that Wim Wenders made a documentary about them? Instead, the question for Yohji is this: can he add enough newness to keep customers interested?
The answer, obviously, is yes. SS17’s silhouette was signature Yohji, updating the look by using lightweight crepe-like fabrics that’ll be perfect for people who still want to play with layers in summer. And, judging from a crowd who were still wearing denim jackets in 90-degree weather, that’s most of the menswear industry.
The overcoats had a paint-like effect and were adorned with slogans such as “I’m hurrying.” Yamamoto has often complained about the sheer speed of everything in the modern age, so it wouldn’t be a stretch to assume that this slogan is a reaction to that. Other pieces sported a painting of Yohji (again, only designers with a Wim Wenders documentary are allowed to be so self-referential) with “I am a Slump” written below.
All in all, it was a masterful collection, showcasing why Yohji is still 10 steps ahead of other designers.
Dries Van Noten Dropped Some High-Brow Tailoring
A wall of smashed lights made for a fitting backdrop for Dries Van Noten’s high-octane menswear. Last season’s OTT military regalia was out, and tapestries were in. Those motifs were draped over overcoats, blazers and bombers, while fringed, shaggy knits solidified the medieval vibes. The buyers would no doubt be happy with Van Noten’s reliably serious Fashion Coats (that is, a normal coat, but bigger, longer and more expensive).
Hidden among all of the historical theatrics was Dries’ biggest hits — some hard-as-nails combat boots, which were liberally sprayed with buckles.
A big, serious display of conceptual tailoring — which is what Dries is all about.
Pigalle Got Married
For his SS17 show, Pigalle’s Stephane Ashpool hosted a mock wedding. Rather than badly-fitted rental suits, though, Ashpool’s motley crew of Parisians strolled around a Montmartre garden in Pigalle’s louche streetwear, which featured a whole lot of lavender, mint, yellow and cream. Ashpool pretty much dragged the Miami coke baron look from the ’80s, and made it modern thanks to pool slides, sweatpants and Tier Zero Nikes.
A forthcoming RETROSUPERFUTURE collab provided some suitably baller sunglasses, with pastel-tinted lenses.
Like Haidar Ackermann’s show yesterday, this one was strictly for the peacocks — if you invited any of Ashpool’s swaggering Parisians to your wedding they’d probably look better than you, take all your drugs and have sex with the bride.