With each passing day of glancing at a news cycle, it becomes more and more clear that we live in troubling times. A revolution of some kind seems imminent, whether it’s against capitalism, EU referendums or violent police forces. For his latest couture collection with Maison Margiela, designer John Galliano has put the revolution right on his clothing, combining his signature club-kid aesthetic with that of actual military garb from eras long gone by. The result is a couture collection that ranks among his most imaginative.
For many, even hearing the word ‘revolution’ immediately conjures images of tri-cornered hats with long-tailed waistcoats, which is why Galliano felt the need to include both in the collection. Of course, these 18th century military pieces (along with Wellington boots, trench coats and even Baroque-evoking skirts) were wrought in materials that immediately stated ‘culture-clash.’ Silver-lame bo-peep caps, anyone?
Yet just as this collection hearkened to the past, so too did it pay homage to the wild frivolity of club kids. A color palette as neon as a bag of Skittles on ecstasy graced the likes of asymmetrical gowns, oversized fur-like sweaters and accessories as head-turning as the princess veils and beekeeper hats. This gritty side of youth culture is evoked most clearly in the dresses stitched with prints of Nick Knight photographs.
It is abundantly clear that Galliano is thinking of upheaval on a grand scale (one dress even features the word ‘revolution’ for Christ’s sake). But when taking in the full line of couture, it is clear that the front trenches of this revolution will be somewhere between the DJ booth and a very, very expensive bar.
Browse the latest in Maison Margiela on the label’s online boutique.
In related news, be sure to check out the recent outing in couture from Vetements.
- Imagery: Vogue