Highsnobiety

Burberry is back, baby!

Daniel Lee’s debut collection as the house's creative director was the most anticipated show on this season’s London Fashion Week calendar, and it didn’t disappoint. In fact, it exceeded expectations, which nowadays is something of a rarity.

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Lee — who was presenting his first collection since taking up the role nearly six months ago — last week hinted at the house rediscovering its Britishness with the reveal of his first campaign, one that featured a host of homegrown talent like Skepta, Raheem Sterling, Shygirl, and Liberty Ross.

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As well as revealing a new brand identity, the 37 year old also delivered a refreshed take on Burberry's “Equestrian Knight” logo, one that was first used at the beginning of the 20th century.

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If anything was clear even before his FW23 presentation: Burberry was embarking on a new era - and an exciting one at that.

The show itself was held in London's Kennington Park, a stone's throw from The Oval, where guests arrived at their seats greeted by Burberry blankets and hot water bottles, two accessories carried by the models throughout on what was a typically mild evening.

As expected, the collection was sleek and traditional, yet vibrant and exciting in equal measure.

Burberry check was presented in bold colors across tailoring, blanket coats, and knits, as trench coats arrived oversized with faux fur-trimmed lapels and the classic car coat deconstructed.

Footwear also caught the eye, in particular oversized rubber rain boots, which sat neatly alongside sneakers and squared sandals, mules, and pumps, some of which adorned cozy faux fur and shearling notes.

Lee’s debut collection is a far cry from the Burberry we’ve seen in recent years, one full of color that not only brings the house into the modern era, but also pays homage to its archival roots simultaneously.

In short, Daniel Lee has delivered a Burberry we can be excited about after less than six months at the helm. Which really makes you think about the brand’s potential long-term.

The future’s bright, the future is definitely Burberry.

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