Glenn Martens and Diesel upped the ant-e on day one of this season's Milan Fashion Week, that's if the label's enigmatic Instagram posts prior to the show are anything to go by.
Martens, who became Diesel's artistic director back in October 2020, has reinvigorated the brand since his arrival with a clear agenda to push the boundaries of fashion.
Whether that means filling a room with giant inflatable (world record-breaking) sculptures like he did for Spring/Summer 2023 or constructing a 200,000-strong condom mountain for Fall/Winter 2023, Martens’ Diesel knows how to cause a stir.
So the fact that the Belgian designer presented Diesel’s Spring/Summer 2024 presentation as more of a party on day one of Milan Fashion Week shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise.
The likes of Jaden Smith, Charli XCX, and front row provocateur Tommy Cash braved the rainy weather to bear witness to Martens' latest. As usual, denim was the focal point of the range, manifesting as distressed outerwear, maxi skirts, and multi-pocketed shoulder bags poised to overtake the brand's signature 1DR purse. Martens also continued to experiment with devoré, a technique that made denim separates look as if they were disintegrating on models' bodies.
Prior to the show on September 20, guests were sent invites by way of a Diesel-branded disposable camera. (Not quite as provocative as the Durex six-pack the label sent out last season, but still out of the ordinary nonetheless.) A series of teasers for the show were just as unconventional — video footage of ants across a kitchen table, only to form Dielsel's "D" logo, was all onlookers got in the lead-up to the anticipated show.
Martens, who is also currently head honcho at Y/Project, is considered to be a part of the new guard of fashion designers pioneering the realm of luxe streetwear.
Through a clever concoction of humor, forward-thinking designs, and out-the-box storytelling, Martens has risen to become one of the most important designers in the game. And his SS24 collection, the presentation, and the hype around it, is undeniable proof.
