Rewind 40 years and some change. The year 1981, to be exact. Denim was taut and unforgiving. Flared legs were still kicking, and dark wash was all the rage. That is until the four Marciano brothers turned the denim world upside down—or perhaps, right side up. Then-newly minted Californians, the Marcianos created the perfect sartorial equation—equal parts effortless French chic (think lightwashed and slim fit) plus classic Americana cool (think high-waisted and distinctive details) equaled a denim revolution. They were comfy. They were cutting edge. They were stonewashed. GUESS JEANS created a new era for denim, an era synonymous with glamor and supermodels. Thanks to the label, Los Angeles got to add yet another accolade to its already glitzy CV: the Denim capital of the world.
After 40 years of innovation…why stop there? Flash forward to today, but this time, the iconic denim house is taking root in Amsterdam.
Spearheaded by Nicolai Marciano, Chief New Business and Development Officer slash son of the legendary label’s co-founder Paul Marciano, GUESS JEANS is introducing a new eco-conscious era and putting new technology to the task. In an era of climate change anxiety and environmental awareness, what does denim production look like? The young Marciano has an answer. His contribution to the next four decades is GUESS AIRWASH™, an eco-friendly and innovative way to create stonewash jeans—minus the stones.
In collaboration with sustainable textile and software firm, Jeanología out of Valencia, Spain, Marciano has worked behind the scenes for nearly a decade to come up with a new way of etching and customizing the fade of denim without the traditional use of pumice stone and harsh chemicals. Laser beams penetrate the fabric to etch out any style of gradations and fading that would’ve formerly been achieved through strenuous rounds of tossing, washing, and mashing. Consider this the end of the Stone Age.
Unveiled to the public on May 21st, GUESS JEANS’ first stand-alone store in Amsterdam serves as a testament to this new era. Located at Kalverstraat 157—the heart of the shopping district—the newly opened flagship’s facade echoes the brand's unwavering commitment to a more sustainable future through the use of bricks made from the marble industry's recycled waste.
A large digital display of the campaign starring Iris Law—sporting the Canadian tuxedo—announced you’re in the right place for all things denim. Inside, next to shelves of blue jeans and logo-emblazoned tees sat the true pièce de résistance: the guiding tech behind GUESS JEANS’ AIRWASH™. Next-gen GUESS shoppers queued up for the most fashionable laser show. The star? A custom denim tote bag. Invisible lasers beamed at the bag. Smoke billowed off from the freshly zapped denim. Custom text revealed itself, almost as if it was already hidden within the fabric. Amsterdammers readily welcomed GUESS JEANS with open arms—and full shopping bags.
A few hours following the store opening, GUESS JEANS brought its storied history to life previewing The Next 40 Years of Denim exhibit to press prior to opening to the public. Having debuted at the Pitti Uomo in Florence earlier this year, the exhibition has made its way to the trendy Jordaan district just to show Amsterdam every era of GUESS since its introduction in 1981.
A walk through The Next 40 Years of Denim, was like entering a portal and traversing time. One could even say it embodied the past, present, and future of the brand. On display were the original jeans that made GUESS a household name. The walls of the gallery were adorned with iconic GUESS JEANS fashion campaign images that catapulted denim from a mundane textile to luxury. The physical representation of the label’s future, Nicolai Marciano, welcomed visitors and effortlessly recounted the origins of a denim dynasty. He stood beside a large steel canister—a relic of the GUESS legacy—and a key player in the brand’s story.
“Within 5 years of the launch of Stonewash, GUESS was producing 500,000 jeans per week in LA. That’s over 20 million pairs a year,” Marciano said. “But denim has a ton of waste, a lot of water usage, it’s a high-impact production process so that’s what we’re here to talk about today.”
This is where Marciano’s latest innovation comes into play. First, a pair of raw denim (that’s an unwashed, untreated, and stiff pair of jeans in layman’s terms) goes into the machine to be lasered. A transparent hood closes, and a technician—lab coat and all—selects a design on a digital screen. In mere seconds, the result is denim that looks like your favorite well-worn jeans. From there, the jeans go into an industrial-sized washing machine of air and a dryer to cure the design. Unlike traditional stone washing techniques, AIRWASH™ does not damage the cotton fibers. The denim strands remain intact, and each pair of jeans remains just as resistant because, simply put, AIRWASH™ is not as rough on your jeans! This isn’t fast fashion, this is forever fashion.
GUESS JEANS’ Amsterdam tour de force culminated with an intimate dinner on May 24th. The exhibition space transformed into a dimly lit dining venue that welcomed Amsterdam’s leading voices in fashion, music, and pop culture. Upon entering, denim-bedecked guests were greeted immediately with a blue-hued cocktail, complete with one giant ice cube inscribed “GUESS JEANS.” Not a detail was amiss.
A pink-haired Isha Van Dijk and fellow model, Dylan Hasselbaink flocked to the photo booth for a memento photo strip. Sainté cracked jokes with buzz-cut beauty, Camilla Venturini and GUESS JEANS photographer, Rafael Pavarotti. Heads turned as TV presenter, Maya Jama entered the room, clad in figure-hugging straight-leg denim. Flashbulbs popped as guests lined up one by one for official photos under the GUESS JEANS logo. Standout attendees including the likes of Lee Spielman and Garret Stevenson began to find their calligraphed name tags at round tables set up across the room. The evening’s festivities materialized as a toast to new friends and a new era of denim.
And lest we forget: the grand finale. The denim denouement. In black cabs, guests were ushered over to Amsterdam Noord, the funky arts-centric borough. The night’s setting: The Loft, a penthouse club along the riverfront.
“GUESS JEANS” shined in bright lights across the room. Floor-to-ceiling windows overlooked the Amstel River, the perfect backdrop to Insta-worthy selfies. The first beats of a 00s chart-topping track drew friends and family of GUESS JEANS to the dance floor. R&B blared from the speakers—courtesy of DJ extraordinaire Kirou Kirou. One by one, VIPS arrived at the exclusive section on stage while DJs Tiffany Calver, P-Rallael, and Nathifa Efia took turns soundtracking the night.
Naturally, the only way to wrap up a four-day celebration was a night of noughties pop roaring at max volume. As Jarreau Vandal spun another classic, it’s clear that the next 40 years of denim are off to a promising start: it’s a little more relaxed, a little more edgy, and a lot more environmentally friendly. And maybe, just maybe, this is where the real fun begins. Because transforming an industry doesn’t happen in one night—it takes four.
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