Designer: Helmut Lang
Location: New York Fashion Week
Key Pieces: Clock the twill workwear two-piece in hot pink.
Editor’s Notes: For Fall/Winter 2019, creative directors Mark Howard Thomas of Helmut Lang menswear and womenswear and Thomas Cawson of Helmut Lang Jeans have tapped into the brand’s predilection for precise, no-fuss elegance with subversive details.
Tailoring is the main pillar of the collection, inspired by the suiting of revolutionary artist Joseph Beuys. In New York, the FW19 suits came in gray wool, flannel, lava melton wool, polished black leather, and double-face white viscose. The show’s styling allowed for simplicity via weightless nylon tank tops and contemporaneity via shiny silver Chelsea boots.
This season also sees Helmut Lang dip into its archives to reimagine a classic piece, the men’s parka, in transparent rubber polyurethane, a look replicated in the pair of matching pants seen in slide #7 above. The show notes indicate that Helmut Lang has relocated production to Italy, which, along with this meta-referential collection, suggests the label is returning to what it does best: design-orientated minimalism with a few surprises to keep things interesting.
To top off the nostalgia, the FW19 show saw the return of cult male models from the early 2010s, Cole Mohr and Yuri Pleskun.