Sacai Fall/Winter 2020 Men’s. Paris, France

Editor’s Notes

The reinterpretation of garments has been a lifelong philosophy of sacai’s creative director Chitose Abe. The continuous hybridization of different styles is why no season of sacai ever looks the same.

For Fall/Winter 2020, new permutations of the suit are seen through Abe’s eyes, with the addition of military outerwear highlights placed underneath. MA1 jackets are layered over a wool topcoat, deconstructed and then fused into one. Down jackets merge with wool blazers, rings became interlinked necklaces and were worn as earrings, and there were heaps of decadent leopard print throughout.

Tattoo Artist Dr. Woo’s custom bandana sketches have been printed and reconstructed into suit shapes, complete with matching bags. sacai is for those with a critical eye to construction, but its appeal for the masses merely lies in it being simply beautiful.

“The idea was to use rings as necklaces and earrings and new ways to wear rings. It’s about romanticism, something I always feel. Then also of course [my signature] hybridization. I heard the words of Einstein how you should follow your instincts and I was reminded that following my instincts to create something new is the best way forward for design,”

Chitose Abe

Audience on Show

“I still appreciate that there’s never just one trend which I respect with Sacai. But I think she’s the master of prints and pleats instead. I didn’t like the big chains but liked the Dr. Woo graphics.” – New York-based editor

“When everybody is shying away from streetwear it’s funny to see [Chitose Abe] holding on to it.” – London-based stylist

Highsnobiety Shopping List

Nike x Sacai Vapor Waffle

Highsnobiety / Julien Tell

After multiple variations of the sold-out LDWaffle and the slightly less popular Blazer Mid, sacai has renewed its partnership with Nike for a third season. The new Vapor Waffle is a Frankenstein-esque creation to end all sneakers and may very well be one of the biggest sneaker collabs of the year.

Dr. Woo Collab

Highsnobiety / Julien Tell

“The bandana print is a collaboration with Dr. Woo, the tattoo artist,” says Abe. “It’s his reinterpretation of bandana prints. This isn’t the first time I’ve collaborated with him. In general, I like to continuously collaborate with people I know.”

Deconstructed Army Trench

Highsnobiety / Julien Tell

“I also love uniforms and I wanted to stress the whole thing of non-violence,” says Abe. In that case, it was slightly confusing that the brand opted for a military dress style and drill sergeant soundtrack. The grande, deconstructed wool and cotton army trench, however, makes up for the contradiction.

Leopard Print Trousers

Highsnobiety / Julien Tell

Baggy leopard-printed trousers by Sacai. Let that sink in.

Toronto-born, bred in The Netherlands, living in London.