Designer: Thom Browne
Location: Paris, France
Season: Spring/Summer 2018
Key Pieces: All of the skirts, obviously. While some skirts are more subtle than others, when juxtaposed against the strictness of a tailored suit jacket, the suit-skirt style impact on a strapping man can't really be ignored. It marks a new benchmark for gender-neutral clothing on the runway, and to see such transgression amidst tailoring is uncommon, to say the very least.
Editor’s Notes: If anything hit home at Thom Browne beyond the American designer’s deft precision at suiting, it’s really the question of why the sartorial codes of menswear still remain so rigid, archaic and strict in 2017.
Browne managed to indulge in his signature tailoring, all while staging one of the most memorable shows at PFWM. While it remains to be seen whether the man-skirt can ever really proliferate menswear en masse, it’s a surefire sign of progression when you have one of America’s most beloved designers set a subversive new agenda for menswear with total confidence and conviction.
For more SS18 coverage, check out Vetements' latest irony-loaded collection.