It’s no secret that Thom Browne is in a league of his own. The avant-garde designer has never had the slightest inclination to make fashion that fits in. This sentiment is reflected in his Spring/Summer 2015 collection. In the past, Browne told Dazed Magazine that he intentionally “surrounds each collection with humor or irony."; a fact we're taking as yet another solid indication that Browne doesn’t necessarily want his creations to be taken too seriously.
This time around, the fabric-made musculature and vaguely militant appearance of some of the season's standouts became the irony-laden focal point. Browne toes a careful line with his tailoring and design, offering a number of classics including ankle-length stovepipe pants with front pleats and cuffed hems which come in striped, solid and checked variations. There is even a trouser that appears to be made of some kind of tweed with lame threading; it is reminiscent of some of the pieces you’d find in Chanel’s most classic womenswear. Preppy above-the-knee shorts have also been thrown into the mix. In Browne’s world, they sit snugly above the natural waistline and are paired with a number of looks ranging from schoolboy-esque button-ups and jackets to casual polo shirts that look ready for a day of flitting around a sleepy vacation town.
These slightly more tame offerings balance out what is arguably the real gold in Browne’s collection -- if you have the gumption to pull off such looks. That would be Browne’s muscle-laden lads who are wearing exactly what many of us would imagine for characters in a fashion-forward sci-fi film. Here, Browne uses a careful hand to create faux muscle structures on otherwise ordinary silhouettes. One jacket sports a pair of exaggerated abdominals which are balanced with oversized patch pockets and what appears to be an extended cap sleeve layered over normal suit jacket proportions.
In another look, Browne creates a patched effect that would -- on human flesh -- give the appearance of a science mannequin with pieces of its corded muscle groups exposed. He pairs this head-turning effect with a military-inspired garrison cap, which further makes Browne’s handsome model look as if he’s ready to fly off in some naval ship bound for another galaxy. In the most exaggerated of Browne's looks, he employs a floral and butterfly print whose whimsicality is offset by clearly delineated faux triceps and biceps that are positively Popeye-like in size, post spinach. He finishes the outfit with another garrison cap, unassuming tailored shorts and a pair of combat boots in a matching print. Wear them if you dare.