The last show of the jam-packed Paris Fashion Week schedule was Thom Browne. Never shy of a bit of theatrics (see his beautiful geisha-tinged SS16 show), Browne’s show saw a troupe of models – faces covered by top hats – parade around a diorama of frames, with a final result looking a bit like a luxe-menswear version of Magritte’s Not to be Reproduced.
In terms of clothing, Browne’s staple shrunken grey suiting, of course, took center stage, although this time it was torn, shredded and battle-scarred – as if his boys had just returned from fighting a very well-dressed war. Browne’s outerwear arsenal included pieces lined with fur, patterned with chevrons and cropped into blousons, with a scattering of patch-worked pieces looking like they were only seconds away from falling apart completely.
Elsewhere, briefcases shaped like wiener dogs proved that making very expensive grey suits doesn’t mean you can’t have a sense of humor. Those cases will join turtle-shaped backpacks and whale bags in Browne’s archive of (very expensive) novelty accessories.
Overall, pretty much business as usual for Thom Browne – a designer whose place as a menswear legend was cemented long ago. Browne’s stiff, buttoned-up aesthetic may have changed little, but he continues to wow the menswear industry with his commitment to theatrics, tongue-in-cheek flairs and breathtaking statement pieces. You really have to wonder how much work must go in to crafting those jaw-dropping shredded coats – they’ll probably end up in a menswear museum somewhere down the line.
- Photographer: Julien Boudet / Highsnobiety.com