Though much of the day was shrouded by Kanye’s mega-hyped YEEZY Season 5 show, it’d be criminal to overlook Thom Browne’s equally sensational FW17 women’s presentation.
Browne’s clinically rehearsed shows are one of the biggest highlights of the season; so much so, in fact, that I actually stressed to my boss that should YEEZY fall unreasonably behind its scheduled showtime (like it infamously did last season), I’d ditch the whole thing to make Browne’s show, which was timed only a few hours after. Luckily, everything ran promptly.
As he usually does for his NYFW women’s presentations, the designer held his show inside a reception-hindering bunker space within the Skylight Modern on West 27th street, which he transformed into a greyscale frozen pond complete with penguin plush dolls, leafless trees and human street lights which sort of looked like tweed-clad gimps.
Browne’s elitist cult of pinstripe-suited minions gracefully directed show-goers to their assigned seats, where the eerie sterility of the room was only disrupted upon the arrival of Browne’s cashmere-wearing dachshund schnauzer, Hector, who made even the most uptight bunch of WASP guests and disgruntled editors coo with adoration.
Once the “aww”‘s ceased, a whimsical soundtrack of classical music filled the room and models with floor-length braids and fabric-covered lips proceeded to slowly wobble their way throughout the maze-like setup, struggling to maintain equilibrium in the ice skate heels they were forced to wear.
This season, the fashion auteur stuck to his trademark refined tailoring, but placed particular emphasis on the ornate trimmings, morphing each conservatism into something almost otherworldly.
Woolen top coats featured long strands of pearl shells, blazer coats were constructed from sewn-together ribbon, lace skirts glistened from the thousands of tiny beads and sequins that were pierced onto them. The abundance of fur was a particular highlight, covering everything from lapels, sleeves and bottoms, and added a modern regality to the more parred-back formalwear. Browne’s tenure at Moncler Gamme Bleu also didn’t go unrecognized; the puffer coat numbers sprinkled an Aspen-tinged sportiness to the collection, but only slightly.
If SS17 was a pool party for a Stepford wife, FW17 was a 5-star ski retreat for the wife of Jack the Ripper. Keep letting that imagination run wild Thom, certainly makes my job easier when writing up these collections.
For more coverage of FW17 Fashion Week be sure to read our other reports on today’s hottest brands.
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- Photographer: Julien Boudet / Highsnobiety.com