Ancuta Sarca, the Romanian-born London-based designer, took to day two of London Fashion Week by reimagining her distinctive design aesthetic with a deeper, even darker twist.
Sarca, who has become renowned for her obscure, slightly gothic approach to everyday fashion, draws on cult cinema classics like American Psycho and Fight Club for Fall/Winter 2024 to serve a more underground and gritty aesthetic.
Taking notes from these cult cinematic classics and fusing them with the unsettling ambiance of an empty airport lounge, Sarca delivers a collection as fun and playful as it is slightly anxiety provoking.
“I looked at airport outfits like tracksuits and business suits and mixed them with elements from hoodies and track pants,” Sarca tells Highsnobiety.
“I experimented with a new bag shape by using deadstock tracksuit materials into hooded velour handbags, with drawstring elements reminiscent of a tracksuit. Then there’s a reconstructed vintage bag that I turned into into a ‘zipped-up jacket’ handbag by covering the original bag with deadstock materials.”
Then there’s footwear, something Sarca has become synonymous with in recent years, most notably her playful Nike collaborations.
Although there are no new Swoosh silhouettes this season, there is room for a selection of 3D-printed minimalist sandals that arrive in vibrant red and blue made in partnership with HILOS studio, recognised for bridging advanced technology with eco-conscious craftsmanship.
“These are the first shoes that are made by blending two printed materials,” Sarca tells me.
“It’s a major innovation in the industry, the first 3D-printed wedge that combines printing harder nylons and softer TPU within one assembly. It opens up a completely new range of design possibilities that still embody the performance and comfort that 3D promises.”
In alignment with Sarca’s dedication to sustainability, the rest of the footwear is imbued with eco-friendly practices. Statement knee-high boots, for example, feature deadstock leathers and faux furs, while surplus fabrics from past seasons are transformed into ankle boots with wing details, ankle-strap kitten heels, and slouchy boots with striking airbrush effects.
“[When it comes to footwear] I have the same design approach as I had when I was studying and then working as a womenswear designer,” Sarca says.
“I do a lot of draping on the silhouettes, I play with materials directly on the shapes, and always think about what I would personally like to wear next season. It’s very much about my taste and what I’d like to see my clients wear.”
Sarca, who describes her eponymous brand as a juxtaposition of sportswear and sexy, is one of the most exciting talents in fashion right now.
Whether you’re looking for thought-provoking designs, a unique maximalist approach, or sheer unapologetic confidence when it comes to one’s talent, Sarca has both in abundance.
