Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection was shown at the former sorting center for the French Post Office and Customs Office. It was appropriate considering the concept behind the clothes involved sorting through different eras of menswear, reinterpreting and re-contextualizing notions of timelessness.
The suit, for example, isn’t going anywhere, but in order to meet today’s dressed-down sartorial needs, it needs to become as relaxed as the dress code of modern offices. Soft tailoring and easy-wearing double-breasted blazers are updated through masculine textures and playful plaids, catering to the more casual zeitgeist and maintaining a sense of structure without looking too constricting.
Set to the haunting tune of Underworld’s “Born Slippy,” the collection took notes of classic tartans, Western clothing, and psychedelic, surreal art (courtesy of Robert Beatty), mixing them together in a way that didn’t pledge allegiance to any particular theme, but created its own sense of congruency.
A marbling technique generally reserved for paper was applied to fabrics, making new garments look and feel more lived-in, and taking the stuffiness out of proper trousers and three-button jackets. Western shirts were rendered in vivid seafoam green pongee silk, speaking to the collection’s desire to zag from menswear conventions and remix tradition.
The latter has becoming a staple for Dries Van Noten, who speaks on his reverence for handcraft and classic men’s clothing in his recent documentary, which chronicles the conception and presentation of his Spring/Summer 2016 and Fall/Winter 2016 collections, which included everything from Marilyn Monroe-printed fabrics, sequined lobsters and reimagined military patches.
For more from Paris, check out check out Kim Jones’s last show for Louis Vuitton.
- Photography: Dries Van Noten