You may not be familiar with Ryuhei Oomaru's name but you've probably seen his work. Under his oomaru seisakusho 2 imprint, the COMME des GARÇONS-trained patternmaker has worked with some of the industry's top-tier talent (The Row, Marc Jacobs, Thom Browne) to create unbeatable outerwear.
Simultaneously, oomaru seisakusho 2 has been quietly operating OVERCOAT, Oomaru's own minimalist clothing brand, since about 2016 when he painstakingly pieced together 3D layering pieces for "THE GREATEST OVERCOATS PROJECT."
As its name implies, OVERCOAT began as an outlet for Oomaru's incredibly intelligent take on outerwear but has evolved over the years into a fully co-ed collection of scintillating ready-to-wear.
Deceivingly simple in nature, Oomaru's OVERCOAT apparel is shockingly understated for how complex it is: layering pieces, for instance, often boast clever shoulder structure that removes stress from the wearer's torso or minimize seams for ultimate freedom.
No corners are cut: Oomaru's garments, already cut from expensive cloth, are often fully lined in equally premium fabric and intelligently accented by unnecessarily considerate details like hidden pockets and convertible collars.
OVERCOAT itself is as quiet as the garments it crafts, with a regular space on the NYFW calendar but a low profile outside of its biannual presentations.
Its showroom-cum-office is tucked into a niche Chinatown walk-up, for instance, and OVERCOAT doesn't even have any stockists in New York since Totokaelo closed.
Not that the relatively limited presence has quelled OVERCOAT's design aspirations, of course.
Fall/Winter 2022 is yet another incredibly compelling collection of low-key opulence, realized through hairy wool harrington jackets, generous double-breasted blazers, faux leather coats, hooded shirts, and OVERCOAT's signature slouchy slacks, rendered in chunky corduroy and pooled atop a new colorway of its ongoing New Balance collaboration.
Statement pieces, like the Statue of Liberty-inspired poncho (a nod to Oomaru's original GREATEST OVERCOATS creations) and graphic shawls may or may not make it to production — such is the nature of working with only a few curated retailers.
But make it a point to visit the OVERCOAT showroom in New York if you've a chance: the brand is receptive to messages planning visits in advance and its clothing really can only be fully appreciated when handled IRL. As nice as its FW22 photos are, even they can't do Oomaru's intricate work justice.