Designer: Palm Angels
Location: New York Fashion Week
Key Pieces: Leather jackets with military-inspired details and medallions, flared trousers made of iridescent leather, high-top slip-on sneakers, and resort shirts with psychedelic, rave-inspired graphics.
Editor’s Notes: Francesco Ragazzi’s Palm Angels label eschewed Milan Fashion Week this season in favor of making its debut on the runways of New York. It brought a little Italian attitude with it, not just in the clothes, but also the light show that preceded the catwalk, accentuated with four statues situated on the runway.
The collection builds on previous seasons, but goes heavy on inspiration from ravers, industrial music, and club culture. The opening song was Marilyn Manson’s “The Dope Show,” a track off of 1998’s Mechanical Animals that former Marilyn Manson guitarist Jeordie White once described as “a mixture of Oasis and T. Rex.”
For Fall/Winter 2019, Palm Angels added a dose of The Matrix and The Prodigy into that mix, pulling from decades of club kids for looks that toe the line between Hot Topic-chic and self-styled Soundcloud rappers. Of course, Ragazzi adds his own twist to elevate the looks, like pairing iridescent flared leather trousers with sleek high-top sneakers with a technical, Prada-esque sensibility.
The graphics borrowed from rave culture (oval-faced green aliens, exploded leafy camos) and juxtaposed them with militaria, like hoodies with pins that resemble the type that denote rank-and-file, and plenty of suits and outerwear boasting multiple pockets, taking utility to the extreme.
Celebrity guests included Gunna, French Montana, Kerwin Frost, Vic Mensa, and 14-year-old rapper Matt Ox.
The show itself felt like a club night, with a crush of people fighting to get inside the venue, eventually charming a door guy or finding a friend in high places to finally get let in. But of course, in the same way The Horrorist’s eerie track “One Night In NYC” punctuated the show’s finale, that was just par for the course in the Big Apple.