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Thom Browne has built an empire on grey tailoring, but his shows are something else. Each season the designer uses his shows as a platform for grand theatrics — Geishas, pool parties, trips through time — and for his FW17 extravaganza on the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Browne celebrated the intricate work that goes into his signature grey two-piece.

Browne filled his show space with rolls of spare fabric and an eerie soundtrack, while models slowly trudged around in outfits that unpicked the various panels and seams that go into one of the designer’s trademark suits. Slowly but surely, the looks got more and more blown-out and two-dimensional, before Browne reeled the madness back in and showed his suits as they are IRL.

That wasn’t all, though. Even when things were as they should be (or as normal as they can be in the Thom Browne mad wonderland), sleeves drooped down at uneven angles and coattails trailed for miles. Here Browne flipped his usual cut — shrunken and ultra-cropped — to its exact opposite. A dramatic finale to Paris Fashion Week FW17.

Words by Alec Leach
Freelance Writer/Editor/Consultant

Alec Leach grew up in Brighton, England, but now lives in Berlin