Highsnobiety
Highsnobiety / Eva Al Desnudo

When Glenn Martens teased his latest Y/Project collection on Instagram with a totally rude accessory, a gigantic middle finger earring, I knew we were in for a treat.

Naturally, Martens delivered. Y/Project has never been for the faint of heart, but the French label's Spring/Summer 2023 collection is especially bold.

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The flippin' fabulous earring (the rude gesture is also woven into sweaters) isn't the only thing to love. There was lots of denim, cut and sewn into seemingly impossible garments: skirts with waistbands that curve away from the body instead of cleaving to it, extra-high boots that creep up to the crotch, a gown made from panels of frayed jeans.

Typical of Martens' work, nearly every piece merits a double take. Tank tops boast wired straps so thin they seemed invisible. A leather jacket made of panels appears to snap together. A choker of enamel roses is so large, it looks more like a neck brace than a piece of jewelry. Everything deserves careful consideration.

Speaking of double takes, Y/Project reprised its partnership with Jean Paul Gaultier, the king of trompe l'oeil. For part two, the duo delivers more visually tricky masterpieces: a turtleneck printed with texture of an argyle knit sweater, a maxi skirt printed with a pair of pants, a tank top printed with a lace-trimmed camisole.

Y/Project x Melissa also makes a comeback, this time in the form of plastic, pointy-toed boots that the footwear brand says are "coming soon."

In the visual-first economy of social media, Martens' mind-bending designs are eye candy so delicious, they can flip us off whenever they please.

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