Coperni made magic in Paris. Its Spring/Summer 2023 collection ought to be memorable for many reasons but one singular event ensured that this runway was one for the history books: the moment when Bella Hadid literally had a dress sprayed onto her body.
It was the finale of Coperni's fashion show on September 30, an appreciably sleek affair rich with sleek satin dresses and celebrities — Kylie Jenner was in attendance — and, frankly, that would've been enough to make it a good collection but this is the brand behind the viral denim jean boots and glass Swipe handbag, co-signed by the likes of Kim Kardashian. Good enough simply isn't enough.
So, it all began when a barely-dressed Bella Hadid stepped into Coperni's venue, slowly walking up to a platform upon which a pair of technicians were perched.
They aim what appear to be airbrush sprayers at the supermodel and pull the trigger. What happens next is what I believe they call "fashion magic."
Layers upon layers of silicon-like goo emerges from the barrel of the spray guns, covering Hadid in a substance that eventually shapes a dress. And it was an actual dress, slowly materializing before the rapt audience.
Once the form-fitting gown is finished, an assistant slices the garment's thigh to allow for movement and, as if to demonstrate that this is indeed an actual garment and not mere trickery, removes the straps from Hadid's shoulders.
Onlookers quickly pointed out the similarities between Coperni's ingenious show and Alexander McQueen's legendary Spring/Summer 1999 runway show, wherein model Shalom Harlow wore a white gown painted by rotating, swirling paint cannons.
And that's indeed the clearest throughline.
But this stunt also recalls landmark presentations from historic fashion showmen like Hussain Chalayan and Issey Miyake, brilliant designers capable of blending spectacle with substance.
With this, Coperni ascends to their ranks. And, to be clear, this is not a technique that Coperni will be using for its mass-market clothing, but a singular you-gotta-see-this affair that sets the tone for future collections.
In fact, as amazing as this moment is, it does create a little problem: how will the indie label top itself next season?