Maison Margiela has just shown its Fall/Winter 2020 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Creative director John Galliano remixed traditional dress codes with accessories in the shape of realistic-looking lettuce, star anise, currants, and asparagus. Yep, now you can look like an actual snack.
Restoration was a key theme in the collection, nowhere more so than the new Recicla (an extremely clever portmanteau of “recycle” and “replica”) concept. Items marked with the Recicla patch are actual vintage gems from within the house that Galiano has upcycled into new pieces through restorative and transformative processes.
In lieu of any full-length pants, this collection saw shorts, ribbon-tie culottes, and kilts styled with distressed socks pulled up to the calf. The outerwear was complex, with items folded and combined together with the label’s signature exposed stitching and cut-out garments layered on top. The vibe was less “deconstruction” and more “mid-construction,” as if you had to dash out of an atelier half-way through being dressed by a team of Parisian seamstresses.
The footwear included new iterations of the iconic Tabi shoe, this time realized as painted mary janes, metallic brogues, brown leather derbies, and the chimera-like high heeled InstaPump fury sneaker as seen in the artisanal show in January. Some bags featured plastic wrapping at the bottom (à la Raf Simons) while others were made from ornately arranged wicker basket painted in bright colors.
The heart of the collection came through via the liberated styling – colorful foulards rolled up and worn as oversized bolo ties – suggesting that garments can and should be worn with abandon, as per the M.O. of Maison Margiela.