Mowalola Brought Big NY Vibes to London
Mowalola has done it again (in a good way). For the label's Fall/Winter 2023 runway show, titled "Dark Web," designer Mowalola Ogunlesi explored "techno-apocalyptic tones," signature risqué codes, and lots of Big Apple nods.
Huge bootleg Yankees logos took shape on Mowalola pieces, from oversized leather jackets to knee-high boots to belt buckles attached to skirts wrapped around models' ankles (seriously).
Following last season's New Balance debut, the label's rumored Timberland collab naturally hit the catwalk for FW23, including those boots with the perforated Yankees motif — and an actual boot bag.
The London-based designer also issues her own spin on NYC's Museum of Modern Art, or MoMa, logo. The result? A clever MoWa graphic — for Mowalola, of course — sprawled across the collection's hoodies and sweatpants.
Mowalola FW23 also is ode to Black style. From the sagging trousers to the cocked hats and Uptowns, the collection gives the Black community its flowers for its blueprint style — a particular swagger and sense of coolness of which is often imitated but never duplicated (or rarely credited, for that matter).
As previewed on Instagram, Mowalola's hand-print trousers also appeared in the presentation, alongside a mini skirt boasting the same trompe l'oiel concept.
The label headed by the former YEEZY GAP designer director is undoubtedly keeping the body tricks trend alive and well, as other garments fooled the eye with physique-focused designs.
As seen in seasons past, Mowalola again explores daring, NSFW concepts that you can't help but love, like extreme cutout dresses leaving little to the imagination, and a tank reading reads "insert disc here" with an arrow pointing to the model's nether regions.
Musician Rico Nasty becomes a Mowalola muse, and so does artist Olaolu Slawn and his little one. More massive handbags and, erm, sewer top totes contributed to the label's already-bold energy. Otherworldly three-eyed sunglasses and LED lights —a beauty look brought to life with the help of Isamaya Ffrench — covered models' faces.
One thing, though. With Mowalola's "Sue Me" top, I can't help but wonder: where was Ogunlesi when Nike's lawsuit defendants needed her most?
If you're curious about the "Dark Web" concept, Mowalola FW23 is all about man versus the machine (capitalism, big corps, etc).
In show notes, the designer reveals how the collection and presentation simultaneously blurs and highlights "the struggle between man’s desire for self-determination and the algorithmic strangleholds we find ourselves in."
"It gestures towards a world in which the two have inextricably merged – a world, there’s good cause to believe, may not be far off." In short, we're doomed. But at least, Mowalola will keep us fly in techno dystopia.
