Rick Owens Men's Spring/Summer 2022. Paris, France
As seen during Not In Paris 3, Rick Owens SS22 is all about the fog machine — it's actually called "FOGACHINE." Owens' custom take on the concert staple comes in three sizes: coffee table, handheld, and tiny stashable editions that fit into the heels of his new platform boots. It's a suitably strange addition to Owens' envelope-pushing (make that envelope-destroying) runway shows, the latest also fueled by the optimistic idea that by Summer 2022, the COVID-19 pandemic will be in the rearview.
Accented by Swampgod's upcycled items, Maison Février's hand-knotted rooster feather jacket, and Goossens' chunky jewelry, Owens' latest is like an extravagant celebration, a headlining band finally taking to the stage. Saucy cut-outs, translucent body-hugging shirts, pagoda-shouldered jackets, visor-like sunglasses, and those aforementioned boots all make for suitable rockstar styling, a mostly-muted palette emphasizing the dynamic shapes and textiles at play.
Dense layers pervade Owens' SS22 offering, but there's nothing heavy about most innerwear. See-through shirts and exploded knitwear is wearable through summer's worst, cropped leather jackets and snap-buttoned shirts ("This generation's blazer!," Owens exclaims) on hand in case of a sudden chill. The undyed silk chiffon and crisp organdy allow for ultra-lightweight garment stacking recall slinky disco costumes, a motif that Owens furthers with an exploration of snug bodysuits cut from an eco-cotton — classic shapes meet contemporary construction in the discotheque of the future.
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Giant Headbands, Necklaces, and Sunglasses
Accessories shape summer style, even Owens' avant outfits. Tossing on this enormous hater-blockers and jewelry is an easy way to lend visual flair to a breathable 'fit, and headbands are ideal for tamping down sweaty brows. These bands have a cool callout to Owens' DRKSHDW sub-label, which is represented both more and less subtly by the gargantuan Japanese-made jeans that drag across the ground.
What if COMME des GARÇONS' iconic '80s sweaters were snug and shredded to the nth degree? You'd end up with something that resembles Rick Owens' SS22 knitwear, probably. There's an artisan quality to the deconstruction, deliberate and delicate, with multiple head-sized holes for customizable wear.
When your clothes are wispy and waifish, make an unmistakable statement with some big, clonking boots. Owens' latest creeper-soled creation is kind of an engineer boot, a laceless style that he's toyed with in the past. Rendered in black leather, they boast imposing silhouette but their effortless fit makes them surprisingly accessible — a suitable overview for Owens' overall output, perhaps.