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In the wake of Marie Kondo-mania, the urge to throw away everything in your closet and start from scratch is strong. At least, to people who find that most of the items they own don’t possess that certain je ne sais quois that “sparks joy” when they wear it.

The same couldn’t be said for Chitose Abe’s creations at sacai. For two decades now (the label was founded in 1999), Abe has developed a following for garments that mix and remix elements of sportswear, classic clothing, and militaria in a way that feels eminently modern, but classic in a wholly new way. Certainly, these items are designed to survive a closet purge.

“The good thing about sacai is that there’s a timelessness to the collection,” says Abe via translator backstage at the latest show. “So you can wear things that were made 10, 20, years ago.”

Indeed, Abe herself mines her own archive, freely mixing earlier pieces with newer ones. Of the instant classics shown this season, leopard print pieces like fleece jackets, trousers, and motorcycle jackets are statement pieces that can stand on their own merits. The same could be said of orange plaid topcoats, or a tailored suit made cozier through a bonded sportswear fabric.

London hotspot Bar Italia gets a shout-out in the form of a selection of high-end merch. This season also saw new iterations of Abe’s still-unreleased Nike collaboration from last season. The LDV/Daybreak and Blazer/Dunk hybrid models are redone in stark black and white and neutral grey colorways, replete with fur details on the tongue of the LDV/Daybreak.

Despite her adamantly anti-trend stance, what’s evident is Abe is riding a similar wave to her contemporaries, not just in embracing animal prints this season, but subtly acknowledging the hold technology has on our lives. Another collaboration that debuted on the sacai runway was one with Beats by Dre. The custom beaded wireless headphones, should they see a commercial release, will be competing with the likes of Louis Vuitton’s luxury earbuds and Kim Jones’ high-end AirPod holders at Dior.


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