Over 40 years since it was launched, Stone Island is undergoing its biggest shake-up since the departure of its founder, Massimo Osti.
A few years ago, Moncler acquired the brand and in May of 2023 Robert Triefus, who previously ran brand strategy at Gucci, Calvin Klein, and Armani, was named as its new chief executive.
Now, Stone Island's changes behind the scenes are starting to bear fruition as the cult-favorite Italian label embarked on its runway debut and the launch of its manifesto — the latter being the beginning of what Stone Island is calling “its next chapter.”
Starting with its first foray onto the fashion week schedule, presented in a former industrial space on the outskirts of Milan, Stone Island marked a move into fashion for a brand that has always existed on its periphery.
Operating in the grey area between fashion and technical sportswear, putting its many innovations at the fore of what it does, Stone Island's design-led approach cares little for trends.
"We did not follow anyone or anything, not the market, not the trends, not fashion," Carlo Rivetti, chairman of Sportswear Company S.p.A. (which owns the Stone Island brand license), told Highsnobiety of its beginnings.
Stone Island's move to present during the trend-obsessed fashion week for the first time, therefore, raises questions of whether the brand is straying from its original aim. However, according to Stone Island's new product head (and Carlo's son), Silivo Rivetti, the brand's current trajectory couldn't be consistent.
The MIlan Fashion Week presentation "is a continuation of the love, expertise, passion, professionalism and the integrity of the compass that is Stone Island," Rivetti told Highsnobiety. "I am very proud and excited to follow my father in leading this creative research and presenting this collection which demonstrates the result of many hands working together. Spreading the culture is our intent and it gives all my team the creative impetus to push the boundaries of Stone Island product.”
A combination of new styles for the FW24 season and old favorites pulled from the archive, the signatures of Massimo Osti’s label were on full display as models stood on a vast structure made from scaffolding.
Technical outerwear, shiny nylon fabrics, and its military-inspired Ghost line, all decorated with the ubiquitous compass-branded badge, were in the mix for the upcoming fall/winter season.
The presentation shares its name with an SS24 campaign that was circulated earlier on the same day: The Compass Inside. The community-led campaign featured actor Jason Statham, producer and musician Dave, rapper Tricky, and store manager Tyrone Estrella among a 16-person cast shot by David Sims.
Not just a celebrity-led photoshoot though, it also arrived with a manifesto (also titled The Compass Inside) which was read out by what sounds suspiciously like the longtime Stone Island fan Dave at the beginning of the FW24 presentation.
“Our vision for Stone Island is expressed in ‘The Compass Inside’, establishing our core values in a tangible way,” commented Robert Triefus, the newly-appointed CEO of Stone Island.
“Relentless innovation, self-reliance, solidarity, and material obsession are the cardinal directions of our compass. We design for the real world, and so our new creative narrative features notable figures from the global Stone Island family.”
The full manifesto points toward a brand staying true to the factors that have always been core tenants of Stone Island, unwilling to bend for anyone or anything. Its opening lines are:
We do not need permission-
permission is there for those looking for it.
We do not follow conventions-
conventions are there for the conventional.
The latest moves from Stone Island stay true to the manifesto by trying out new formats on its own terms, complete with an industrial-style presentation, archival grails, and one of England's most famous geezers (AKA Jason Statham).
In short, the brand might be going through some changes currently, including joining the Milan Fashion Week schedule, but fans of the iconic Italian label needn't be worried.
Stone Island is staying true to its roots.
