In the world of cinema, fashion isn't just about clothes—it's a dynamic storytelling tool, sparking narratives of identity, empowerment, and societal change. And nowhere is this more apparent than in the captivating realm of Yorgos Lanthimos's Poor Things, which won 4 Oscars at the 96th Academy Awards. The film won Best Costume Design, Best Makeup and Hairstyling, Best Production Design, and the talented Emma Stone took home the Oscar for Best Actress in a Leading Role. 

This cinematic gem has been raking in awards and captivating audiences with its gripping narrative and stellar performances by Emma Stone, Mark Ruffalo, and Willem Dafoe. But beyond its compelling plot lies another facet that excites fashion enthusiasts: its daring and distinctive wardrobe choices.

Let's journey through the enchanting landscape of Poor Things, exploring how its lacy and ruffled costume design adorns the characters and serves as a visual declaration of feminism, resilience, and sexual liberation. 

Poor Things: A Stylish and Witty Hit

Poor Things has sparked some controversy and ignited discussions about its feminist themes and societal impact. Even when I saw it in the cinema, I saw how the film would stir the cultural pot. 

Some see it as a triumph of female empowerment and self-discovery. Others questioned its portrayal of femininity, stating it is yet another film made in the male gaze taking advantage of female sexuality. Fueled by the movie's divisive reception, these debates mirror its influence on social dialogue and prompt reflection on gender norms and representation in media. 

So, how does Poor Things blend fashion, film, and culture on-screen? The magic is in the details.

Emma Stone's Costume Evolution in Poor Things

The story unfolds by taking viewers on a surreal journey across a steampunk and colorful 19th-century European setting, where Bella Baxter, a woman with the brain of an infant, embarks on a journey of self-discovery and empowerment. As Bella's mental age catches up with her physical development, she navigates a new world around her. She embraces her newfound sense of agency, challenging societal judgment and embracing her sexuality without shame, navigating a world of whimsy and wonder. 

Adapted from Alasdair Gray's novel, the film captivates viewers with its stunning imagery that blends surrealism with realism, crafted by creative director Simon Hughes and the VFX team.

In an interview with Vogue in December 2023, now Oscar winning Costume designer Holly Waddington, reflects on that development through Bella's wardrobe as it evolves dramatically on a whirlwind journey. Waddington's creations, inspired by Victorian patterns but executed with modern fabrics like plastic and latex, perfectly capture Bella's otherworldliness and progressive spirit.

As Bella's journey unfolds, her attire evolves from a childlike persona to a sexually and politically liberated woman, symbolizing her progression toward agency and self-discovery.

Stomping Around in Knickers 

At the beginning of her story, Bella is depicted in a state reminiscent of infancy, waddling around barefoot. She adorns costumes that evoke a childlike innocence and vulnerability during her early scenes at home. Waddington stated they were "committed to the idea that you'll never see her properly dressed," much like a child.

The result? Whimsical yet slightly unkempt ensembles featuring textured knickers and cage-like bodices evoking discomfort. These outfits possess a doll-like quality with a hint of sci-fi flair, brilliantly conveying Bella's vulnerability and infantile mental state, a motif reinforced as she grapples with restriction, control, and exploitation.

The Escape to Paris 

As Bella Baxter embraces her new chapter as a sex worker and plunges into the intellectual scene of Paris, her fashion sense takes a dramatic turn. Her wardrobe evolves alongside her, mirroring her growth and choices, especially as she ventures into the world of brothels. 

In scenes depicting her work, her attire reflects a celebration of the female form, with pastels and translucent fabrics dominating her outfits, or lack thereof. However, when Bella steps out with her friend Toinette, played by Suzy Bemba, we witness a shift to a more sophisticated look—think knee-high socks, pointed black boots, a statement coat with voluminous shoulders, and a crisp white collar. 

This period also marks Bella's interest in socialism and her aspiration to become a doctor, which is evident in her attire's practical yet stylish vibe. In another interview with ELLE, Waddington mentions drawing inspiration from socialist gatherings, incorporating elements of black dress, and referencing images of Victorian medical schools to craft Bella's evolving wardrobe.

A Wedding, Interrupted

Then we arrive at the pièce de résistance of the film: Bella's wedding dress. The dress is a masterpiece that illustrates Bella's journey from innocence to independence. This dress isn't just fabric and thread; it tells a story. 

Imagine this: Bella, poised in a breathtaking gown, sporting exaggeratedly puffed shoulders, with a delicate, nearly translucent veil shrouding her face. It departs from the pastel hues and fragile fabrics that characterized her earlier wardrobe. Instead, it exudes an air of sophistication and self-assuredness. 

It's as if she's shedding her old skin and stepping into this new world of independence – a declaration of Bella's presence, freedom, and never looking back.

Draped in Resilience

In this wild and fantastical world, from the backdrops to the clothing, every detail tells Bella's tale of self-discovery and newfound empowerment. The dreamlike atmosphere adds an extra layer of magic to the narrative, giving us the space to dive deep into themes like identity, agency, and societal expectations. As Emma Stone's character grows from innocence to freedom, her wardrobe undergoes its own journey, morphing with each step of her evolution.

So, Poor Things' costume design not only deserves more attention but also offers profound insights into the film's thematic depth and narrative progression. It's like stepping into a mesmerizing alternate reality where fashion isn't just about style but about resilience and breaking free from constraints. We should all be taking notes. 

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