In La Trienniele di Milano, a new retrospective takes an in-depth look at the 20-year-long career of fashion’s favorite, and most influential gothic innovator, Rick Owens.
With his inky, shoulder-length hair, lean frame and penchant for wearing black, Rick Owens is known favorably to his admirers as the “Lord of Darkness,” and his fans follow his career with a cult-like reverence. His supporters span high-fashion enthusiasts, sneakerheads (thanks to a 4-year collaboration with adidas) and rappers — notably A$AP Rocky, who rapped “Rick Owens usually what I’m dressed in” in “Peso” in 2011.
His designs have inspired everyone from Kanye West’s early seasons of YEEZY, Jerry Lorenzo’s silhouettes for Fear of God , and the industrial vibes from Boris Bidjan Saberi. Born in America, but now living in Paris with his wife and creative collaborator Michele Lamy, Rick Owens designs for his eponymous line and DRKSHDW diffusion line, while also creating furniture and sculptures. One particularly eye-catching sculpture from this exhibition, whose working title was “TURDNADO”, is made from adriatic sand, concrete, flowers and Rick’s own hair. The dramatic sculpture meanders around the museum like a billowing cloud of black smoke, echoing the draping, avant-garde designs of his garments.
As the above images demonstrate, Rick Owens’ gothic aesthetic has championed a fashion-sportswear hybrid, gender-neutral design, architectural shapes, a sense of humor and of course, plenty of black.
“Rick Owens. Subhuman Inhuman Superhuman” is open from December 15, 2017 through March 25, 2018.
Triennale di Milano
Viale Emilio Alemagna, 6
20121 Milano MI, Italy
- Photographer: Stefano Carloni / Highsnobiety