Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello showed his Spring/Summer 2019 menswear collection in New York City last night. Well technically, it was New Jersey, as guests piled into the South Street Seaport in the Financial District to catch multiple ferries to the show's venue—Liberty State Park. In case you missed it, we livestreamed the show last night.
Just last week, New York designer Alexander Wang pre-empted the fashion calendar and showed his latest collection in the city as well, indicating that off-calendar shows might be a more common occurrence for future fashion designers.
Invitees included iconic model Kate Moss, actors Sebastian Stan, Dave Franco, Ezra Miller, and Paul Bettany, and artist 21 Savage, who rolled up in a bright yellow Saint Laurent bomber jacket. The show began with the Manhattan skyline in the background, with prominent buildings like One World Trade Center lit up to add to the ambience.
The collection itself pays homage to departed brand founder Yves Saint Laurent's personal wardrobe. The designer favored slim-cut suits and high-waisted trousers with an understated Parisian flair, and that was present in many of Vaccarello's looks. The inspiration also manifested in louche-fitting shirts and black leather jackets with lapels—a more old-school take on the biker jackets that have become a modern Saint Laurent staple. He was also a fan of Marrakech, Morocco, and plenty of the patterns and motifs in the collection referenced that, especially appropriate for a Spring/Summer collection.
After the show, guests piled onto another boat for the afterparty, which was another homage to the house's founder. Themed after the 1978 launch party for YSL's “Opium” perfume, guests sipped on champagne and were served caviar. Vaccarello continues to have some pretty big shoes to fill in the wake of previous creative director Hedi Slimane's departure, but in looking to the house's heritage to inform its future, perhaps he's taking a step in the right direction.
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