Supreme's SS18 collection dropped earlier this week and as usual, the internet reacted with a range of approval, confusion and memes.
Among nostalgic items such as a Supreme pinball machine (if you didn't have a pinball machine in your house during the ’90s, you weren't shit), and more controversial accessories like a silver bullet, one garment stands out: a faux-fur bomber jacket, which appears to be inspired by legendary Italian house Fendi.
The repetition of "SUPREME" across the jacket both the right way up and upside-down with almost interlocking Ps is a clear nod to Fendi's iconic "zucca" monogram.
Supreme, who are always looking back in time to pull out obscure and enjoyable references, have delved back into the ‘90s for this item (see the OG Kim, Lil’ Kim, in the Fendi zucca above). Flexing in a fur jacket is emblematic of what luxury Italian fashion stands for i.e. attention-grabbing, predicated on a certain exclusivity and a bit over the top. In other words, it's a perfect match for Supreme.
Fendi first opened in Rome as a fur and leather goods store in 1926 and has since become a luxury fashion mainstay. Karl Lagerfeld joined the house in 1965, and still oversees its fur and women's ready-to-wear lines alongside his work at Chanel. Fur has been a core part of Fendi's business since day one, and the brand has been putting its monogram on fur coats for decades — see here for a vintage example.
Over the years fur has fallen out of popularity with many customers, which has led brands like Gucci and Tom Ford to drop it entirely from their collections. However, Fendi still put fur pieces on the runway for its FW18 show in Milan, most notably on a monogrammed bomber which bears a striking resemblance to Supreme's homage.
Nowadays, Fendi is owned by luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, and has recently pivoted to millennial audiences, penetrating the style zeitgeist with its egregious logo-ing and penchant for vintage glamour. It's on the come-up basically, and the revival of its monogram patterns is bang on trend. The house's recent FW18 show in Milan made a point of slapping the logo on nearly every item in the collection as well as bringing in meme-maker and graphic artist @Hey_Reilly to temper with the 'FF' for ironic graphic prints.
Even Kim Kardashian is on the Fendi hype (although she's probably being paid for it), and prescient tastemaker Kanye West was actually an intern at Fendi back in 2009, and even had the zucca logo shaved directly into his head.
Check out the rest of Supreme's SS18 lookbook here.