Alexander McQueen

Creative director Sarah Burton describes the designs that she oversaw for Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2021 in terms of silhouette and depth, emphasizing a restrained approach that puts form over facade. And truly, there are plenty of pared-back sweaters and trim suits free from ostentation, but that doesn't quite speak for the quirky hybrid garments and quirky stabs at streetwear statement print, some relative oddities for the Kering-owned company — though it has been toying with piecemeal pieces for several seasons, Burton usually fuses less jarring fabrics.

Mirroring some items from the accompanying womenswear line, these casual looks pair "MCQUEEN"-branded flight jackets and washed-out denim jeans in a Travis Bickle manner, though the latter fabric is also utilized for a jumpsuit and the blazer/trucker/bomber oddities. They made for odd bedfellows for the collection's other items, which leaned harder into tailoring territory by way of double-breasted blazers, hidden placket overcoats, and trim two-pleat trousers.

If nothing else, the spliced oddities complemented the youthful edge iterated by the pervasive whiff of sportiness. This came courtesy of the occasional track jacket, technical parka, or tapered boilersuit, complete with trek-ready water bottle bag in matching purple. Still, most of the goods delved into mature waters (read: white shirt, chunky sweater, dressy pants), accented by statement jewelry or illustration.

Big, bold brooches graced lapels, and chunky necklaces shined collars, providing a glossy edge not offered by Burton's preferred beefy black boots. Paper cut prints delivered additional flair, transforming coats, shirts, sweaters, and tracksuit with imagery drawn from the label's heritage (especially the dove and skull imagery) and playfully skewed.

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