When A$AP Rocky turned up at the Grammys wearing a flamingo pink Loewe suit back in February, he set the tone for what would prove to be a curious year on the men’s formalwear front.
Over the last 12 months, we’ve observed pop culture’s biggest tastemakers execute all styles of suits in myriad creative ways. There have been suits with clashing patterns; suits tucked into riding boots; suits in neon colors; and even suits that arrive with belts. At the same time, there’s been a resurgence of tailoring, as Hedi Slimane’s inexorable influence at Celine begins to reverberate with a lot of guys.
A special mention must go to Drake — who remains unwavering in his commitment to looking like an ersatz gangster with a taste for Brioni — and Jaden Smith, for his flawless co-option of Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière.
Oversized suits also popped up more frequently, with Marc Jacobs a notable proponent of the flared look. Brands like Martine Rose, Thom Browne, and of course, Balenciaga, continue to carry the torch for going boxy or going home.
At last night’s British Fashion Awards, Rocky again took relaxed tailoring to the extreme. Stepping onto the red carpet in Rick Owens sneakers, the rapper’s billowing, custom two-piece from Rihanna’s new FENTY line was less Tom Ford and more David Byrne; the type of baggy ensemble you’d imagine a teenager excavating from his granddad’s closet when he has nothing to wear for a last-minute job interview.
Did it work? Reactions have been mixed, but let’s remember Rocky is usually far ahead of the curve on things like this, to the point where folks don’t really understand what he’s doing until six months later. Like jeans, there appears to be a freedom to suiting right now that dictates there is no right or wrong when it comes to the actual style. Throughout the summer, Flacko has been a case in point, sometimes favoring shorts with a wide-shouldered Raf Simons blazer up top.
Taking that into account, perhaps it’s not time to start raiding your dad’s closet for that enormous, double-breasted relic from the ’80s just yet. Rather, find something flattering for your own figure, and really own it.