Masayuki Ino's ingenious, LVMH Prize-winning label Doublet debuts perhaps the singular most entertaining runway of fashion month every year and it's not just 'cuz of some celeb guests or fancy set. Every season, Ino introduces a brilliant array of wearables that take his high-concept fashion dramatics to new heights — literally, in the case of Spring/Summer 2023.
That is, the key pieces from Doublet SS23, "IF YOU WANT IT," are a series of "headless" jackets and sweaters that made the runway models look like they've been decapitated by cleverly boosting the garments' neckholes with built-in shoulderpads.
If they're anything like the padded pieces Doublet did for Fall/Winter 2019, the pads will be removable so you could wear the track jacket, turtleneck sweater, or double-breasted coat normally, but where's the fun in that?
Ino's predilection for fabulously creative, shapeshifting clothing has manifested in crazy costumes and transforming sandals so SS23 isn't exactly his wildest offering yet but, compared to many of his convention-conscious Fashion Week peers, the Japanese designer stands tall.
Behold the toe mules that shod many of his models, for instance (slight shades of COMME des GARÇONS or The Soloist and Midorikawa's Suicokes), testing every natural instinct we possess to obscure our feet (and rightfully so).
Considering that Doublet SS23 also debuted a popcorn dress with mannequin-inspired print, trompe l'oeil trousers aplenty, and a sweatsuit with individually-labeled parts, the shoes feel like part of an extended homage to Margiela, the original industry upsetter.
Though the Belgian designer certainly set the tone for Ino's playful progressivism, plenty of other cues are Doublet's alone.
The "rusted" rider's jacket, layering pieces that deteriorate into long strings, and, yes, the aforementioned head-hiding outerwear are pure Ino.
And, though the set pales in comparison to the fashion ingenuity on the runway itself, it reflects Ino's greater creative philosophy.
"It is possible to make it snow in Paris in the middle of summer," he said in the SS23 collection's show notes. "May the smile... spread again."
