Opulent row boats on the grand canal of the Château de Versailles can only mean one thing: Jacquemus is in town.
The French label rarely does things by the book. In fact, it never does. Ever since he won the esteemed LVMH Special prize back in 2015, house founder Simon Porte Jacquemus and his eponymous brand have been doing things their own way, and to great effect.
From off-schedule shows in Hawaii to surprise Central Cee cameos, and (albeit successful) Nike team-ups, Jacquemus is doing as it pleases. And Spring/Summer 2024 is no different.
For its latest off-schedule get together (one that came the day after the conclusion of Paris Fashion Week Men’s), Jacquemus invited guests to the canals of Château de Versailles for its SS24 "LE CHOUCHOU" collection runway.
As guests were chauffeured by row boat, it was clear the event was going to be a typically grand Jacquemus affair on the banks of the Palace of Versailles. And, of course, there were Jacquemus clothes to match.
Transparent lingerie and puffy tutus, were joined by backless shirts and laced vests, with an array of square-toed footwear arriving in the form of ballet pumps and loafers. Accessories played a key role too: Kendall Jenner's choker, notably, was inspired by the one famously worn by Princess Diana in the early nineties.
New iterations of Jacquemus' fan favorite bags joined reworked older styles on the 400m runway, as baggy pants, polo shirts, and bomber jackets were rendered in glistening white (with the odd pop of red) and cut generously for maximum summer ease.
Since day one, Jacquemus' output has drawn inspiration from the designer's upbringing in southern France. It walks a fine line between the sensual and traditional, occasionally dipping into one or the other before resetting itself as a stylish liaison between worlds.
Of course, the label's collaborations have had a big part to play, although it isn’t just Nike that Jacquemus has had the pleasure of teaming up with.
The label tapped Danish homeware aficionados Tekla for an opulent bedding collection in 2022, after it co-created a chic e-Bike with Dutch imprint VanMoof.
Still, despite the successes of its collaborations, Jacquemus’ continued triumph is also down to its mainline collections, where it melds sensual minimalism with youthful freshness and playfulness.
In a realm rife with codes and blueprints, Jacquemus’ reluctance to conform to fashion’s norms is arguably the most refreshing part of the brand’s success. That on top of aforementioned good collaborations, a solid mainline, and dressing big name celebs is proof that Jacquemus knows exactly what it’s doing. Never change. Ever.
