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For its latest womenswear show, LOEWE occupied the Château de Vincennes on day four of Paris Fashion Week to present its latest collection of stringent daywear realized through Jonathan Anderson’s inimitable lens.

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The reductionist approach LOEWE has taken in recent seasons looks to be continuing through Spring/Summer 2024 with blazers, coats, and v-neck jumpers arriving both tall and vertical in a deluge of textures, while trousers and skirts assume high-waisted positions with equally-as-high pockets.

Short chunky jumpers, long capes, and dilated pullovers that flow around the body offer relaxed looks, alongside classic boxy T-shirts and knee-length leather shorts with noticeably-distressed hems.

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Typical of any LOEWE women’s show, things aren’t always as they appear. Glistening brooches are also tops and oversized safety pins are fasteners. Rings, cuffs, earrings, and pendants, created by Lynda Benglis, are accessories but thought of more as wearable sculptures said to reflect the shifting world around them.

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Sandals, pointed mules, round-toe silhouettes, and schoolboy shoes catch the eye when it comes to the footwear, while bags — this season’s trendiest accessory — arrive aplenty, whether that’s the Squeeze Bag (named for its squishy handle) or the Pebble Bucket bag (named because of its pebble-like shape).

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SS24 is almost incomparable to FW23, which verged on My Polly Pocket-core with cartoon-like sculpted dresses, skirts, and cropped tops, and was a lot more on the safer side. But still, if we know anything about Anderson and his time at LOEWE, it’s to expect the unexpected.

So, in hindsight, we should’ve seen this more subtle LOEWE showing coming from a mile off. Who'd have thunk it?

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