It feels silly — tone-deaf, even — to wax lyrical about runway shows while the Supreme Court hacks away at reproductive rights, threatening assaults on contraception and gay marriage next.

Marc Jacobs acknowledged the dissonance between the fantasy of fashion and the reality of America at his Fall/Winter 2022 show — held at New York City's Public Library on Monday evening — by quoting Friedrich Nietzsche, an unexpected yet apt reference.

"Choice," the designer prefaced the philosophical shout-out. "We share our choices in contrast to the ongoing brutality and ugliness of a world beyond our insulated but not impermeable walls."

If, as Nietzche said, "we have art in order not to die of the truth," how does Jacobs envision our survival?

The designer went extreme, presenting twisty, voluminous silhouettes made of experimental materials (vinyl, rubber, and foil are a few examples), perhaps hinting at some not-so-distant future in which conventional textiles are inaccessible.

Set against last week's news, each look took on a defiant attitude: plasticky headscarves became armor; skirts with bustles made of lumpy sweaters knotted around the waist warped the figure; new takes on Jacobs' platform Kiki boots threatened to crush anything in their path.

The beauty was dystopian, too. Models sported bleached eyebrows and partially shaved heads, sculpted with sharp micro-bangs that wrapped around the head to the ears (Bella and Gigi Hadid were nearly unrecognizable).

The severe hair and makeup made me wonder: will dystopian, "anti-beauty" beauty surge as we weather increasingly turbulent times?

Already, we've witnessed subversive beauty trends, such as Kendall Jenner's absent eyebrows and TikTok's "one-minute mullet," take off across social media. And this month, makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench launched her own brand, a range of products inspired by the dark, industrial aesthetic of latex and kink.

Makeup has always held a mirror to politics. In the early 1900s, red lipstick became a symbol of the suffragist movement (for white women, at least). And last spring, TikTok users began poking fun at conservatives by giving themselves "Republican-sona" (short for "Republican persona") makeovers, a trend riffing on the way in which right-wingers apply makeup: thick eyeliner, mismatched foundation, and concealed lips are among the look's hallmark traits.

As America becomes increasingly inhospitable to the majority, will we see a popularization of the anti-establishment makeup of the punk movement, or an embrace of Jacobs' ascetic, alien-esque beauty?

How will our faces reflect our collective fury?

What To Read Next

  • Browns Sale

    Bag 60% off Converse, Aries & More in this Summer Sale

    Style
  • Image on Highsnobiety

    Prepare For "The Next Wave" of Patta x Nike AM1

    Sneakers
  • airport outfits

    Ease Your Delays With Better Airport Outfits

    Style
  • Image on Highsnobiety

    The Best Black Sneakers for Women Right Now

    Sneakers
  • Image on Highsnobiety

    In Search of the Perfect Knit Sweater

    Style
  • Image on Highsnobiety

    HI-TEC Is Having a Low-Key Revival

    Sneakers
*If you submitted your e-mail address and placed an order, we may use your e-mail address to inform you regularly about similar products without prior explicit consent. You can object to the use of your e-mail address for this purpose at any time without incurring any costs other than the transmission costs according to the basic tariffs. Each newsletter contains an unsubscribe link. Alternatively, you can object to receiving the newsletter at any time by sending an e-mail to info@highsnobiety.com

Web Accessibility Statement

Titelmedia (Highsnobiety), is committed to facilitating and improving the accessibility and usability of its Website, www.highsnobiety.com. Titelmedia strives to ensure that its Website services and content are accessible to persons with disabilities including users of screen reader technology. To accomplish this, Titelmedia has engaged UsableNet Inc, a leading web accessibility consultant to help test, remediate and maintain our Website in-line with the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG), which also bring the Website into conformance with the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990.

Disclaimer

Please be aware that our efforts to maintain accessibility and usability are ongoing. While we strive to make the Website as accessible as possible some issues can be encountered by different assistive technology as the range of assistive technology is wide and varied.

Contact Us

If, at any time, you have specific questions or concerns about the accessibility of any particular webpage on this Website, please contact us at accessibility@highsnobiety.com, +49 (0)30 235 908 500. If you do encounter an accessibility issue, please be sure to specify the web page and nature of the issue in your email and/or phone call, and we will make all reasonable efforts to make that page or the information contained therein accessible for you.