Every season, TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist. designer Takahiro Miyashita makes clothing of varying levels of difficulty, ranging from slightly advanced to totally bonkers. Miyshita's Spring/Summer 2023 collection leans towards the latter, with a vast assortment of crazy clothes that push the boundaries of the term "wearable."
According to the Japanese press release, Miyashita sought to create "imperfect" clothing this season, epitomized by a series of trompe l'oeil dresses scribbled with fashion sketches of varsity jackets, painters' smocks, and saucy slip dresses.
The effect is intentionally disorienting, carrying over to Miyashita's ankle-scraping hoodies and transforming zippered skirts. Proportions are practically ecclesiastical, with the lengthy one-pieces granting models the silhouette of clerical vestments.
Miyashita's typical military inclinations also appear in the form of quilted vests and cargo shorts but there aren't any conventional cargo pants or field jackets here. The designer has instead upped the ante to eschew any familiar nods that might make it easier for your average menswear enjoyer to latch on.
Other garments in the SS23 collection are flipped around, with blazers and cardigans boasting reversed closure (or at least just styled that way). The raw-hemmed tailoring with branded patch on the sleeve is kinda giving Raf Simons but, then again, Raf doesn't own a reference.
Instead, Miyashita proposes sophisticated black leather slip-ons, derbies, and boots of varying heights, ranging in size from knee-high to classic ankle.
It's the sole bit (no pun intended) of approachability in Miyashita's latest lineup. For folks seeking stability, it may not be enough but, for everyone else who can appreciate the boundary-obliterating brilliance of the man who created Number (N)ine, The Soloist SS23 is plenty of fun.