Highsnobiety

For Nicolas Ghesquière, the future has always been now. Last week, he transported the fashion world to San Diego where he brought his forward-looking vision to life through Louis Vuitton Cruise 2023. And that present future as he sees it is one that needs fighting for.

Backed by the setting sun along La Jolla shore, 56 models walked the brutalist construction of the Salk Institute for Biological Studies, clad in Grecian goddess-like drapery and metallic textures that literally called to mind protective armor. Ghesquière resurfaced his life-long obsession with science fiction, this time combining it with nods to sports and retro styles reminiscent of the ‘80s, looking all the way to a new millennium set in his own dystopic version of Dune.

We unpack the best bits and pieces of the collection below, from the most standout looks to a new collaboration, and a noteworthy update on a signature sneaker.

Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this Instagram post.

Dune: Part II Came Early

Ghesquière’s messaging of the future through LV Cruise 2023 started with his stage for it. The Salk Institute is home to scientific research in cancer, neuroscience, immunology, and climate change, and makes for a meaningful location to showcase his impending apocalypse. The collection starts with intricately embroidered regal gowns, and goes through varying classes of the LV warrior clan before ending with the most heroic of soldiers, ready to be dispatched into space for battle.

Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni, Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni, Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni

Among the models were actual Olympians—real-life warriors—Eileen Gu and Dalilah Muhammad, and toxic shock syndrome survivor Lauren Wasser. Protected by LV's durable constructions, they stormed triumphantly across the barren, concrete expanse, in tune with the beat of the pulsating music. At least in Louis Vuitton’s universe, our role as humans seems to be to survive and overcome this planet’s harsh conditions, and then fight to protect whatever is left of it.

Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni, Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni, Louis Vuitton

Everything As Armor

The warrior theme continues throughout the styling, finishing details, and accessories. Substantially layered tweed and jacquard, sequins shaped like scales of exotic skin (The Rainbow Fish, anyone?), and Transformers colors abound. Wrist guards and shoulder pads are reinforced with metal and leather, and even the shoes and bags are plated with metal. Padded and perforated details inspired by motor sports claim functionality, and draped fabrics encourage movement. Even the series of long dresses that opened the show are worn with sneakers.

Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni, Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni, Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni

Ghesquière’s selection of metallics are intentionally meant to reflect and change with sunlight. Silver and gold-covered denim pants are stitched with embroidery that oxidizes and changes color with time, furthering his play on nature and mission to be one with it.

One of the most standout pieces of the show were the series of bolero jackets with glittery streamers in the same metallic theme that altogether resembled alien UFOs already midflight. Ghesquière confirmed that his intention was to make them look like “kite-like wings.”

Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni, Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni, Louis Vuitton / Giovanni Gianonni

A Retro-Super-Future

Draped linen and tweed are appropriately accompanied by harem pants reminiscent of the '80s and '90s, their retro-ness intensified by a bright primary color palette. Low-rise denim in iridescent gold and silver hark back to Y2K style, more proof that for Ghesquière, it’s not necessarily about being modern. His LV-enabled spacetime continuum encompasses all eras, mixed together to create his own, new retro-futuristic aesthetic.

Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton

Yayoi Kusama's Return

With Cruise 2023, Louis Vuitton teases the revival of its long-standing relationship with Yayoi Kusama. Marking the 10th anniversary of their last partnership, the new collaboration sees Kusama’s colorful dots painted on monogram leather bags, and interpreted as bulbous metal studs scattered throughout new silhouettes. The full collaboration will release this January.

Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Image on Highsnobiety
Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton

The Archlight 2.0

Following up on the popular Louis Vuitton Archlight sneaker is the Archlight 2.0, amplified with new metallic colorways and chunky velcro straps. The same Archlight sole is also hybridized with Chelsea and combat boots, so heavyweight that they could be weaponized on their own.

Your Highsnobiety privacy settings have blocked this Instagram post.

The show came to a close with the speakers blasting Sparks' 1974 song, "Never Turn Your Back On Mother Earth." The models walked toward the sun as if going on a space mission, promising something we don't yet know. But what we do know is that whatever the mission, Ghesquière's battle will surely end in victory.

We Recommend
  • Louis Vuitton & Timberland's collaborative 6" boot designed by Pharrell in wheat nubuck
    Louis Vuitton's Timberland Boot Is Pure Pharrell
    • Sneakers
  • Pharrell Williams wearing a big hat
    Louis Vuitton's New Creative Director is also One of the Richest People in Hip-Hop
    • Culture
  • Pharrell's Spring/Summer 2024 Louis Vuitton menswear collection
    All the Best (& Wildest) Stuff From Pharrell's First LV Drop
    • Style
  • miu-miu
    2023's Defining Fashion Pieces, From Ballet Flats to Bayonetta Glasses
    • Style
  • Pharrell Williams wearing a white suit and Tiffany sunglasses stands in front of models on the Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2024 runway in Hong Kong
    Pharrell's Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2024 Runway Made Hong Kong (More) Tropical
    • Style
  • Image on Highsnobiety
What To Read Next
  • Models wear Hed Mayner's Spring/Summer 2024 collection
    Hed Mayner's Reebok Collabs Are Too Good to Last Forever
    • Style
  • City Girls' JT attends Diesel's Fall/Winter 2024 runway show in Milan
    City Girls' JT Did Diesel, McDonald's Wings & a Symphony With Solange
    • Style
  • nike zoom vomero 5 design by japan
    No Notes, Nike's Japan-Designed Vomero Sneaker Is Stunning
    • Sneakers
  • adidas samba made in italy
    This $300 Samba Says "Ciao"
    • Sneakers
  • Union Los Angeles' Spring 2024 clothing collection
    Union LA's Chris Gibbs Is Proud to Be a Streetwear Brand
    • Style
  • love is blind nike sneakers
    Of Course, Drake’s Nike AF1s Landed on a Dating Show
    • Sneakers
*If you submitted your e-mail address and placed an order, we may use your e-mail address to inform you regularly about similar products without prior explicit consent. You can object to the use of your e-mail address for this purpose at any time without incurring any costs other than the transmission costs according to the basic tariffs. Each newsletter contains an unsubscribe link. Alternatively, you can object to receiving the newsletter at any time by sending an e-mail to info@highsnobiety.com

Web Accessibility Statement

Titel Media GmbH (Highsnobiety), is committed to facilitating and improving the accessibility and usability of its Website, www.highsnobiety.com. Titel Media GmbH strives to ensure that its Website services and content are accessible to persons with disabilities including users of screen reader technology. To accomplish this, Titel Media GmbH tests, remediates and maintains the Website in-line with the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG), which also bring the Website into conformance with the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990.

Disclaimer

Please be aware that our efforts to maintain accessibility and usability are ongoing. While we strive to make the Website as accessible as possible some issues can be encountered by different assistive technology as the range of assistive technology is wide and varied.

Contact Us

If, at any time, you have specific questions or concerns about the accessibility of any particular webpage on this Website, please contact us at accessibility@highsnobiety.com, +49 (0)30 235 908 500. If you do encounter an accessibility issue, please be sure to specify the web page and nature of the issue in your email and/or phone call, and we will make all reasonable efforts to make that page or the information contained therein accessible for you.