Following the NYFW show seen around the world, we thought it high time to break down the biggest influences seen throughout the latest collection and last season’s.
Kanye West’s YEEZY Season 2 – much like YEEZY Season 1 before it – will no doubt go down as one of the biggest presentations of the 2015 fashion calendar. While much has been made of YEEZY Season 2’s disheveled look and aesthetic similarities to its predecessor, it’s worth remembering that Kanye is still very much at an early stage in his fashion career.
When the first installment of his Yeezy.Supply project launched, Kanye made it very clear that he considered himself a curator rather than a designer; pulling various influences together to package them in a new way, rather than creating an aesthetic entirely of his own. Never one for mincing his words, Yeezy told Style.com‘s Dirk Standen regarding YEEZY Season 1:
With that in mind, we thought it appropriate to break down some of the aesthetic similarities running through Kanye’s latest sartorial venture.
visvim’s Noragi jackets
Hiroki Nakamura’s Japanese label has garnered a cult following worldwide with its heritage aesthetic that mixes Japanese craftsmanship with an adoration of all things Americana. It seems that Kanye, who has regularly been spotted in the brand’s legendary FBT sneaker, took inspiration from visvim’s Japanese Noragi jackets for this particular piece. If the buyers we’ve spoken to are to be believed, then the Yeezy.Supply clothing will certainly match visvim’s artisanal production quality, too.
Silent by Damir Doma’s Earthy Color Palette
One of the most prominent features of both YEEZY Seasons 1 and 2 (and the clothes Kanye wears himself, for that matter) is the muddy color palette used throughout the pieces. A stark departure from his rainbow-tinged Polo, BAPE and Pastelle days (or even his all-leather Givenchy days), Ye’s fondness for khaki, nude, clay and putty appears to be a nod to Croatian-German designer Damir Doma’s Silent label, whose collections typically revolve around earthy hues and heavily washed fabrics.
Haider Ackermann’s Oversized Sweaters
Boxy, voluminous sweaters are an integral part of Kanye’s new grungy, disheveled aesthetic – both on the runway (or “parade ground” as he’d put it) and on his own back. Yeezy has been spotted many times in oversized sweatshirts from Haider Ackermann, who has made the one-size-too-big look something of a calling card. West most notably showed love for the Colombian designer with the velour hoodie and silk bomber that saw heavy rotation following the 2015 Grammy’s – and Ackermann’s influence appears to have made its way into YEEZY Season 2, which features a whole ton of baggy, oversized crewnecks and hoodies.
It’s likely that these will be among the most commercially successful pieces of the collection – bar the footwear, of course – and it appears that some high street retailers are already ripping them off. No surprises there, then.
Maison Margiela’s Nude Bodysuits
While most of the streetwear world’s coverage has centered on the menswear portion of the YEEZY Season 2 line, it’s important to remember that Kanye’s latest venture includes a whole ton of womenswear too. Margiela-esque nude bodysuits were used throughout the collection’s women’s looks, paired with heels or the Yeezy 950 Duck Boot. Kanye hasn’t been shy in his adoration for the legendary Parisian house – who designed the masks and furry high-top sneakers used throughout the blockbuster Yeezus tour – and it appears that the flesh-hued women’s gear is his way of paying tribute to the house that Margiela built. Mrs. Kardashian-West has been wearing a lot of nude lately, too; hardly surprising given Kanye’s fondness for dressing his wife himself.
Rothco’s Raw Function
Army outfitter Rothco has made a notable footprint on Kanye’s apparel creations, as military fatigue-style apparel constitutes a large portion of both YEEZY Season 1 & 2. Aside from a strong assortment of militaristic ready-to-wear, Kanye’s collection alongside adidas Originals also included the duck boot-inspired Yeezy 950, which was locked down with unmissable Operation Desert Storm overtones, not without signature speed lacing. Moreover, attendees to the recent NYC showing received their invites in the form of a screenprinted Rothco longsleeve shirt.
Helmut Lang’s Distressing and Dystopian Aesthetic
Kanye’s subtle appropriation – aside from one YEEZY Season 1 vest that is essentially a replica of a Helmut Lang version – of Lang characteristics is a defining aspect of both the first and second YEEZY Season collections. Palpably dystopian silhouettes match well with distressed detailing, raw hems, rough tailoring and muted colorways.