"Searching for authenticity" was how Resort Corps founder Luca Modesti described his label's FW18 collection. "Today, physical subcultures have completely disappeared. The only way for kids to express themselves is through consumption, by wearing references from older subcultures." Resort Corps started a year or so ago in Paris, as Modesti's way of creating his own youth movement in a time when genuine subcultures exist only as memories. Since then, his heavy-duty hoodies — most notably the ones embroidered with "Empathy" — have quietly invaded some of the world's best retailers.
Modesti, who dabbled in hooliganism and graffiti before cutting his teeth at Rick Owens, started Resort Corps because he wanted to make street-level, "understandable" clothing but with unfussy, high-end production. His hoodies take things back 20 years, with their heavy-duty 700gsm fleece construction and screen prints, while FW18 expands the brand's product offering further with the addition of denim jackets, combat pants and bomber jackets.
That no-nonsense, wardrobe-focussed approach to high-end streetwear probably explains how the brand caught the eye of so many high-end buyers in such a short space of time — Resort Corps can be found alongside some of the world's best designers in places like SSENSE, Selfridges and Lane Crawford.
For FW18, Resort Corps imagines the uniforms of working-class European archetypes. There's police jackets and combat pants for the cops and soldiers, while the "Goon" sweatsuit was designed for an imaginary debt collector, with corporate logotype running down the sleeves. When Resort Corp's guys are flush with cash, there's jacquard-knit, high-density wool sweaters covered in blinged-out eagles. It's a straightforward collection of wardrobe solutions that have been designed to last for decades.
When asked if it's problematic creating blue-collar clothing at a luxury price bracket, Modesti points out that his pieces are still half the price — at least — of equivalents from the labels his collections sit next to.
Resort Corps also skips the fuss, hype and noise that comes with so many brands in the jam-packed luxe-street category. From day one, Modesti wanted to communicate only via Instagram, and will occasionally send out pieces to people he finds particularly inspiring or interesting — that'll explain Felix Leblhuber's shots of buzzy models that litter the brand's IG page. When you're stocked in some of the world's best stores, next to some of the world's best designers, you can afford to just let the clothing do the talking.
"I wanted people to see it but not know who's doing it. I wanted people to question it" Modesti explains.
Resort Corps FW18 will drop later in the year, while the brand's SS18 collection is due to hit retailers like Selfridges, SSENSE, 424 on Fairfax, Lane Crawford, KM20 and Ne.Sense.