Brand: Vetements

Season: Spring/Summer 2018

Key Pieces: The XXL-sleeved Umbro T-shirt in highlighter yellow (didn't Vetements just say they were over oversized fashion?), all of the weird tailoring, the eclectic array of Vetements logo T-shirts, those clunky Vetements logo heels, and the “Ommy Hilfiger" hoodie.

Editor’s Notes: This was undoubtedly the brand’s most painfully pedestrian and irony-loaded collection to date.

After Demna Gvasalia announced that the brand would drop out of fashion week, it staged an “event” at Paris Fashion Week, inside a multi-storey car park, and it was closer to a photography exhibition than a fashion show.

The brand showcased its entire lookbook, shot by Gvasalia himself, all in Zurich — on a street cast bevy of locals. The actual clothes are all “normcore gone wild” with a few avant-gardist exceptions such as sculptural shirting.

Gvasalia’s choice to fashion it all on a cast of “normies” is a pretty logical maneuver following its previous guerrilla techniques at Paris Fashion Week, and given the SS18 collection's fixation on the logo and reworking it different iterations – it's fair to assume fashion's wider trend for logomania is going nowhere.

Want to see more from Demna Gvasalia? Check out the designer’s latest collection for Balenciaga.

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