Dior Homme’s FW16 show raised a few questions. Who decided that the peaked beanie should make a comeback? How much did that chandelier cost? Was someone going to skate those quarter pipes? While Dior SS16 saw the house play with military themes, this time around Kris Van Assche’s models marched around a runway littered with neon-lit skate ramps.
Van Assche’s aesthetic was anchored around a punchy palette of black and red. The garments were visually striking – thanks to that color scheme – but patchy in execution and concept. This being a multi-million dollar luxury house, there were some surefire commercial successes – elongated biker jackets, shearling bombers and florals all looked like they’d fly off the shelves. Various boot/shoe/sneaker hybrids added some macho hardness to the house’s polished aesthetic.
Christian Dior being an icon of tailoring, there were of course plenty of suits and topcoats on show – which were sharp, clean and stayed true to the house’s legacy. Less could be said of the clumsy tartan jackets, awkwardly mismatched sweaters and cringeworthy beanies, though.
While some of Dior’s luxury peers have successfully captured the imaginations of clued-up, style conscious youths, it’s hard to imagine anyone really needing these clothes in the same way that they need Saint Laurent’s and Givenchy’s.
- Photographer: Mathieu Vilasco / Highsnobiety.com