Highsnobiety is on the ground at the world’s fashion capitals, bringing you up-to-date reporting on the latest shows, presentations and events from the SS17 fashion weeks.
To save you the hassle of checking countless different collection reports, we’re bringing you all the most important happenings in one easy-to-digest daily roundup.
Here’s everything you need to know from Day 1 of London Collections: Men SS17.
London Collections: Men, the British capital’s dedicated menswear week, is widely regarded as one of the most exciting — and just straight-up fun — events on the globe-trotting fashion week schedule. The city is filled with talented, challenging young designers, and many of them are really carving a niche for themselves on the global fashion stage.
Xander Zhou Meets Vetements
First up on Day 1 was Chinese-born designer Xander Zhou, who seemed intent on starting some sort of oversized hoodie arms race with Demna Gvasalia. His extra-baggy sweats sported XXL-sized sleeves (remind you of anyone?), although he managed to one-up Gvasalia and co with some XXXL-sized drawstrings.
Those comically large sweaters were shown alongside some deconstructionist experiments that purposefully looked like they were half falling off the wearer’s bodies, with low-brow motifs like patent leather, studded belts and leather trousers making things look really, really like some sort of Vetements tribute collection.
It was a complete departure from the dizzying ’70s time-warp that was Xander Zhou FW16 — which is a shame. Zhou does get bonus points for his use of sparkly fabrics and his insane multiple-belt creations, though.
Craig Green Just Gets Better and Better
A somewhat lackluster start to LCM’s first day was redeemed by Craig Green, who seems hell-bent on carving out a niche as an avant-garde wunderkind of Rei Kawakubo proportions. It says a lot about Green’s work that every member of the show’s packed audience was craning their necks to get a glimpse of every one of his pieces — which are getting better with every season.
Last season’s blanket stripes were used once again, likewise the constricting-yet-protective hoods that were shut tight around his models’ heads. Trench coats looked like they’d been ripped apart then pieced back together, with corseted panels replacing previous seasons’ gushing ribbons.
A few of Green’s boys were dramatically wrapped up in what looked like layers of bedding, while his playful, imaginary sense of utility remained a focal point — what use is a jacket that only cover the wearer’s front? Or a bandolier-style cross belt that doesn’t support or hold anything?
It was yet another stunning, ethereal experience that felt more like a theater performance than just a bunch of expensive clothes walking down a runway. LCM’s schedule is filled with exciting young designers, but Craig Green is just on another level, really.
Business as Usual for Astrid Andersen
Astrid Andersen might be Danish, but she certainly isn’t one for minimalism. Andersen’s swaggering, American-inspired sportswear staples were paraded down the runway to a pounding Brodinski soundtrack, as her favored baseball jerseys, varsity jackets, coaches jackets, basketball shorts and the like were all dressed in lavish, Eastern-tinged embroideries. Snakeskin panels, shimmering metallic trim and that most louche of footwear combinations — pool slides and socks — furthered the boisterous vibes.
Astrid’s SS17 gear looked much the same as SS16, just re-dressed in a low-key palette of neutral grey and icy blue. The show also marked Andersen’s first-ever foray into womenswear, with a set of looks that were essentially re-cut men’s pieces.
All in all, pretty much business as usual for Astrid — absolutely nothing wrong with that — and SS17 made for some lush eye candy, but you can’t help but wonder if there’ll be anything left for the designer once the sportswear wave inevitably dies down?
CMMN SWDN Heads to Arabia
CMMN SWDN’s Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund — who met while designing for Kanye West’s abandoned women’s line, FYI — took us on a trip to Morocco with their SS17 presentation. Dry cotton, striped poplin and light cashmere set the scene, and a mish-mash of patterns and styles was shown alongside an equally diverse color palette — just like a bustling Moroccan market.
Centerpiece to CMMN SWDN SS17 was without a doubt this plush dusty pink suede trucker jacket, complete with corset-style stitching. Luxe string vests, voluminous pants, leather trousers and robe-like topcoats made for similarly punchy statement pieces.
CMMN SWDN has taken the blueprint for Scandinavian menswear — clean silhouettes, minimal detailing and classic garments — but made it flamboyant, loud and chic. Miles away from the tedious minimalism that so many Nordic menswear labels get stuck in, and definitely a brand to watch.
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Highsnobiety as a whole.