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Supreme's Milanese flagship might be more than a thumbed nose at the fake Supreme — it could be indicative of the New York brand's infiltration of Italian high society. Supreme leak experts have begun speculating that the streetwear titan's next collaboration may be another step beyond the streets and towards the runway, akin to its infamous Louis Vuitton collaboration. Specifically, rumblings suggest Supreme x Emilio Pucci may be on the horizon.
"Pucci is currently going nowhere," critic Suzy Menkes wrote in 2018, reviewing a Pucci retrospective in Florence. It's true: The 74-year-old fashion house, best known for its '60s-era eponymous designer's ingenious use of vibrant hues and cropped cuts, has made few recent waves outside of its existing well-heeled clientele, though a recent uptick in demand for vintage Pucci has quietly buffed its sheen.
Still, Pucci could be ripe for mainstream revival, given that its trippy, colorful prints laid the groundwork for recent work from the likes of Raf Simons and Dries van Noten and fit neatly into the current zeal for flashy retro flavor. Pucci is also owned by LVMH, which worked with Supreme on RIMOWA and the aforementioned Louis Vuitton collaborations. LVMH chairman and CEO Sidney Toledano told Menkes back in 2018 that he was angling to bring Gen Z into the Pucci fold — a Supreme partnership makes that leap a no-brainer.
Supreme doesn't really have anyone left to impress, given that its own branding is now worthy of art galleries and eye-watering auctions. However, its affection for aligning with runway-ready designers is readily evident given previous Jean-Paul Gaultier and Yohji Yamamoto drops — could any of its peers compare? Supreme x Pucci is unexpected but not unnatural, as linking arms with one of the world's first major Italian fashion houses cements the opening of Supreme's new store and further asserts its industry dominance.