Last week’s announcement that Martin Margiela is auctioning some old memorabilia unsurprisingly drove fashion nerds into a frenzy. How often does one of the great designers release their archives to the public? Well, never. As Maurice Auction, the company behind the sale, notes, “This is the first time a living creator has directly collaborated with an auction house to offer their personal archive of clothing and designs.”

As usual, Margiela is an innovator. 

There’s a lot to pick from. And the just-released list of items for sale doesn’t disappoint. A total of 276 items are going under the hammer on July 9 that date from 1988, Maison Margiela’s founding year, up to 1994, over a decade before Martin departed his eponymous house in 2009.

The selection also goes far beyond just vintage clothes, though it’s packed with plenty of standouts. These include a Spring/Summer 1990 blazer handpainted white, a trademark Margiela technique, expected to fetch €91,000 (around $105,990) to a Spring/Summer 1993 necklace where white cotton ribbon ties are attached to a branch cut from a tree, an example of the designer’s boundary-pushing repurposing techniques from an era long before high fashion designers would’ve ever approached the notion of upcycling.

Each item provides an insight into the influential techniques invented and honed by Margiela’s maison, but most revealing are a series of sketches, fabric samples, and paper patterns. These are sacred texts of avant-garde fashion.

There are prototype logo designs for a little-known late-’80s Margiela project in collaboration with designer Graziella Picozzi (who recently auctioned off her own Margiela archives) and hand-drawn sketches showing how clothing should be properly folded for packaging. Folders full of designs include fabric samples and facsimile sketches for the production of Spring/Summer 1990 — the legendary collection Margiela showed in a derelict Parisian playground that inspired a famously moved Raf Simons to become a fashion designer — and original drawings of a Spring/Summer 1991 high-heeled tabi boot.

These books, full of annotations and drawings, are the closest look inside of Margiela’s brain to date. The auction even encompasses the designer’s original paper patterns, one even assumed to be from Margiela’s first-ever collection, so you could roleplay as the designer and create one of his OG designs from an OG pattern. You can basically become Margiela.

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This drop is built around seven brands from seven nations, bringing together  huge brands, classic Nike silhouettes, and local youth sport organizations. Canada’s got Drake’s NOCTA line, France called upon Jacquemus, South Korea snagged “King of K-Pop” G-Dragon’s brand PEACEMINUSONE, while Palace tapped England legend Wayne Rooney to model its range.

There’s almost too much happening to mention. So, let’s zoom in on the shoes. 

Each of the seven countries has its own "Cryoshot" Nike shoe, all dropping on June 11 and built atop various old football boots. Or soccer cleats, to use the lingo of the American World Cup fans. 

One of the biggest standouts comes from America’s representative, the Virgil Abloh Archive (or V.A.A.), which was established by the Louis Vuitton creative director’s wife after his passing. This shoe revives the design language of Abloh’s history-making “The Ten” sneaker collection on a pair of Cryoshot Zoom M9 sneakers. This is, essentially, a pair of late-’90s boots but with Abloh’s “AIR” iconography on the heel and a see-through plastic cover over the sole’s studs (or, again, cleats). 

But while it’s wild to see one of the most hyped sneaker collaborations ever suddenly return (sort of) several years after its designer’s passing, the V.A.A x Nike shoe is actually one of the more modest designs.

Patta, the Dutch Royal Family of Fashion, recreated the wavy silver panels of R9’s Mercurial Vapor, NOCTA dressed a 1994 Tiempo in golden yellow, and artist Slawn, being Slawn, covered a 1976 Striker boot in his spray-painted art in an ode to Nigeria. 

I’ve been a well-documented skeptic of “boots-only summer,” last year’s push to wear football boots off the pitch, and of the sudden fashion brand-backed football boot obsession. But even I have to admit there’s something cool about a 1970s boot being reborn as a surprisingly suave sneaker.

And Nike’s got the star power to make sure that everyone notices.

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Their informal, laid-back approach defines their relationships with these designers, too. Take expert shirtmaker Gonzalo Cobos Humera of Dterioro. Working out of his Madrid studio, he makes one-of-a-kind pieces from vintage natural fabrics and buttons finished with hand-sewn buttonholes. He first came across Nubes on Instagram and, after browsing their website, simply sent them an email to introduce himself. “Even though they had never heard of me,” says the designer, “they gave my work their honest attention and soon decided to give it a chance. There’s a lot of mutual trust between us. Above all, Oisín and Aoibhin are just genuinely kind people.” 

I’m speaking with the husband-and-wife duo just as their lives have taken a radical new turn. After six years in Berlin, where they moved impulsively after booking a one-way flight, they now find themselves back in Ireland, without a house and staying with family. For the time being, Nubes exists as a stack of boxes — literally. Not that Oisín and Aoibhin aren’t used to running the store impromptu. During their time in Berlin, they would host occasional pop-ups or set up racks in their apartment in the Mitte neighborhood whenever someone made an appointment.

That adventure began with Frank Leder, another offbeat designer that Nubes stocks, known for his high-end reinterpretations of German workwear and folklore. “We came across his work when Nubes was a mere sapling, with barely a logo to its name. We were still thinking about what our first product should be,” Oisín and Aoibhin write on their blog. They were introduced to Leder through one of his models, whom they had met by chance at an event. “Frank invited us to his atelier, where we sat and talked for two hours. At one point he said, ‘Okay, what do you want to do?’” Aoibhin recalls. “We explained our idea for working on a shirt together, to which Frank agreed then and there.” 

A result of personal connection and a bit of luck, the shirt — called “The Advocate” — is based on an old barrister shirt Oisín used to wear to work. It’s made from undyed 1960s German cotton bedsheets, one of Leder’s signature deadstock fabrics, and comes with both a classic pointed collar and a butterfly collar, which can be attached using antique studs sourced from England. “At different levels of court, you wear a different collar,” Oisín explains. “We thought it would be really cool to translate that into a single shirt you can wear in three different ways.” Leder agreed. “I found it very interesting to hear about this traditional attire,” he says, “and used the idea of a lawyer’s shirt to construct the pattern based on those in my studio.” Leder also came up with the idea of placing a woven label inside the pocket where the stud is kept, reading: “One stud in the pocket is better than two studs under the bed.”    

The slightly nebulous nature of Nubes, existing in and out of boxes, somewhere between online and offline, has a down-to-earth explanation: both Oisín and Aoibhin work as full-time freelancers — he’s a lawyer, she’s a fashion copywriter. “Nubes doesn’t feel like work, in part because it isn’t, and in part because we just love it,” Oisín says. “We first met when we were very young, and when we crossed paths again about 17 years ago,” Aoibhin adds, “we were already talking about opening up a shop at some point in our lives. Our goal right now is to leave our jobs so the store can be our full-time work.” 

The first step needed to make that happen is finding a space on Ireland’s West Coast, ideally in Skibbereen, an artistic village in the rugged and scenic West Cork region. “It’s definitely remote,” Oisín says, “but it’s also a kind of creative hub — full of musicians, potters and architects — and there’s a famous Saturday farmers’ market that draws people from all over the area.” With just 3,000 inhabitants, it’s a world apart from Berlin. “We look back fondly on our time there,” Aoibhin says, “but in a big city like that, it can be hard to experience human warmth or build and contribute to a close-knit community.” 

Once a space is found — “we have our eye on a spot, but don’t want to jinx it” — it’s community-building they’re after with Nubes. They spend a lot of time cultivating a thoughtful online presence through their web shop, blog and even a Substack. Yet, they correctly assert there’s nothing quite like the brick-and-mortar experience of a clothing store. “We’re nostalgic for the idea of an old high street in a small town, where everyone knows each other and a variety of businesses sit close by,” Oisín says. As old-fashioned as that might sound, it aligns with a trend among forward-thinking boutiques that refuse to sell clothes online at all, like Ven. Space in New York and Elise in Leamington Spa, England. 

But still, how will the local crowd in Skibbereen react to a $450 “Short-Sleeve Farmer Shirt” or $870 “Bog Jacket” from brands they’ve never heard of? “It’s all about trying to educate,” Oisín says. “We understand that not everyone can spend that amount of money straight away. But we do believe we can help people see that neither makers nor wearers benefit from cheap garments in the long run.” 

Besides, Oisín and Aoibhin are in the game long enough to know the magic of good clothes. “It’s kind of like the wand in Harry Potter finding the wizard. We’ve seen it happen,” Oisín says. “We once did a Christmas market in Dublin where someone tried on a jacket that looked amazing on them. When they asked for the price, they said, ‘I’ve bought all my presents this year, you know.’ But I just knew they’d be back. Half an hour later, they were — and bought it.” 

Sneakers are great. We can all agree on that. But as much as I love wearing them and adore writing about them… sometimes you just crave something with a little more substance. Something less athletic-adjacent. In other words, I want to feel at least a teensiest bit professional. 

The problem is, I’m a sucker for comfort. Having once religiously rocked a pair of clippidy cloppidy loafers, I’ve since retired them to office hours only. Somewhere along the way, I subconsciously fell into a routine of changing from runners into said loafers under my desk in the mornings — a scene from The Devil Wears Prada I never thought I’d relate to. That’s when it became clear: it was time for something new.

I’d been eyeing up Dr. Martens Reeder shoes for a couple of months – long enough for Instagram to start serving me ads mid-doomscroll. All of this to say: I finally bought them. The Reeder “Crazy Horse” Leather Utility Shoes are definitely not sneakers, and as you can probably guess from the name, don’t exactly scream summer either. But that’s the best part. Made from rich Wyoming leather with a subtle grain, these feel like pure Dr. Martens through and through.

Admittedly, these are my first “Docs,” I wasn’t emo enough to stomp around in black boots in high school, and thankfully never fell into the trap since. As a result, I wasn’t clued in to the fact that they run large, so bear that in mind. When it came to choosing between the waxy brown pair and the fabric black, I was conflicted. Black is safer, sure, but the brown is, dare I say, sexier.

These don’t feel stiff either. You’d think, with the chunkier sole and sturdy upper, they’d be like walking on bricks, but thankfully, they’re not. In fact, the leather actually gives, molding to your feet in a way that feels wholeheartedly grown-up.

If this is adulting, maybe it’s not so bad after all.

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Under Paura's direction, the famous skate shoes now feature airbrushed argyle uppers and fuzzy shoelaces, giving the feeling of Vans sneakers wrapped in one of the brand's signature knitwear pieces.

The sneakers are also scuffed, cut, and marked up to look as if they'd been through a session (or five) already.

The icing on this Authentic birthday cake? Danilo Paura's brand has put "piercings" on its Vans shoes. They're actually Italian-made hardware designed to look like legit body piercings.

Vans' Authentic sneaker has lived many lives over the past 60 years, including that of a ballet shoe and an Oxford dress shoe.

But Paura takes the opportunity to go even deeper, celebrating not only its skate roots but its connections to the punk scene. It restores that rebellious spirit in an incredibly luxurious way, something Paura already does with its clothes.

It's no wonder the Authentic looked right at home in its "Paura sweater."

Speaking of which, the brand's Vans Authentic collab is scheduled to drop on Vans and Paura's websites in cream and black colorways on June 6.

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The latest version, the Predator Sala, is no exception.

This one is inspired by the Diet Coke can itself. The upper features a droplet effect that nails that moment when you crack open a cold can, subtle, but honestly, kind of genius. With adidas branding on the tongue and Coca Cola details sprinkled throughout, it manages to feel classic and tongue-in-cheek at the same time.

This is definitely one of the more wearable drops from the collection. There’s a red and black pair covered in Coca Cola logos that’s not quite as easy on the eye. 

The Predator Sala, on the other hand, resembles an old school soccer shoe—pure elegance, really, with just enough twist to make you look twice.

It’s the perfect flex for anyone who wants their sneakers with a side of nostalgia and a splash of something unexpected. 

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More specifically, this is about the difficulties of deciding what sorts of things to bring that feel both easy to rotate and cross-combine with one another, but also practical and destination-appropriate. Of course there's merit in a carry-on wardrobe that's universal, but there's as much pleasure to be gained from piecing together outfits that are thematic and really crank up that OOO aura.

Focusing on the latter doesn't have to fully exclude the former though; one thing doesn't have to negate the other. And with the help of MR PORTER's extensive catalog, this is an undertaking that's to show how off-duty dress in ways that are fun but not immature, vacation-y but not corny. 

And don't you forget that sunscreen, now!

Top Half

The easiest section to make decisions for, one might argue, is up-top. The right kind of shirt can be just as comfy and nonchalant as a favorite frumpy tee, but'll look so much better with everything from long board shorts to teeny tiny Speedos or a pair of normcore jeans. 

Now, some swear only by long-sleeves rolled up, but if there was ever time and a place for a short sleeved button-up, it's on holiday somewhere warm. Don't let anybody tell you otherwise. 

Bottom Half

A lot of people find the matter of pants to be harder to solve. Those slightly skimpy short shorts you're wearing by the pool all day can appear a bit out of place at dinner. But no one wants to do sightseeing in the heat in pleated pants though either. 

There are certain styles of cropped culottes that can moonlight as elevated and fashionable without forcing you to sacrifice on movability and comfort. Not all jorts are created equal, but some provide a decent middle ground as to how one's ‘fit can remain climate-controlled but not look too laid-back. 

Accessories 

Accessories are both the garnish and the functional linchpin holding everything together. Be it a big spacious bag filled with the contents needed for a trip to the beach, the baseball cap that shields one's eyes from exposure to the sun (and one's grimy saltwater hair from exposure to the public) — this is where you ought to be creative and clever.

So, extra points if any of these have just enough of a souvenir vibe to pass as endearing yet tasteful memorabilia that can outlive one's time away. 

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ALL Accor has been purposefully weaving itself into the tournament for years, giving fans everywhere a chance to live the Roland‑Garros lifestyle. Essentially a cheat code to elevated travel, ALL Accor unlocks access to over 45 hotel brands across 110 countries, bringing loyalty programs and a knack for making every stay feel special. In order to bring their world-class luxury to Roland-Garros, ALL Accor are providing high-end experiences both in the stadium and at a wide range of hotels.

For the full Roland-Garros treatment, you don’t even have to step onto Court Philippe‑Chatrier. For the first time ever, Le Royal Monceau - Raffles Paris has been transformed into a tennis lover’s dream just in time for the big event. The hotel’s pool courtyard has been made over with an ochre clay platform—complete with a net and an umpire’s chair made from dichroic glass that catches the light in a decidedly dramatic fashion. Down the hallways, a gallery of translucent portraits tells the story of Roland‑Garros since 1928. Inside the Roland‑Garros Suite, you'll find eye-catching amenities like a mashrabiya-style ceiling and, most importantly, a ping-pong table ready for a quick match. You'll also find a custom tennis-inspired furniture piece, progressively signed by players and VIP guests throughout the tournament—a unique and ever-evolving concept piece that only ALL Accor and Le Royal Monceau could dream up.

At Le Bar Long, Lacoste has taken over the space, bringing its iconic tennis heritage into one of Paris's most celebrated hotel bars. The Bar’s staff are dripped out head-to-toe in classic Lacoste style, serving cocktails made specifically for the tournament. On the menu, Executive Pastry Chef Yazid Ichemrahem has created bespoke confections in collaboration with Lacoste, bringing together his expert palette and the tournament's sporting elegance. At the hotel's cinema, guests are able to screen games with homemade popcorn and signature dishes, so you get all the action, even if you’re not actually in the stands.

But just in case you can’t make it to Paris in time for the games, don’t worry, there are many other international locales where tennis fans can have a one-of-a-kind experience, ALL Accor-style. The Pullman São Paulo Ibirapuera, The Pullman Tokyo Tamachi, and MGallery Shanghai Nanjing are currently decked out in clay-and-green colors, and are hosting daily live screenings that welcome both ALL Accor members and the public. For the tournament's finale, former tennis player and coach Larry Passos will join The Pullman São Paulo with live commentary, so you don’t miss a moment of match day. 

If you’re lucky enough to make it to the tournament in Paris, make sure to cozy up at the ALL Accor x Roland‑Garros Lounge. For the two-week whirlwind of the tournament members get a courtside box to unwind in. To make sure this looks the part, Potel et Chabot Creative Studio teamed up with Marseille-based artist Sarah Espeute to craft a space full of detailed fine art. When it comes to food, a rotating lineup of world-class chefs keeps things fresh, with menus crafted specially for the tournament. If you’re feeling creative try an embroidery workshop with the Œuvres Sensibles team, and if you’re feeling indulgent, you can grab afternoon tea or a glass of Moët & Chandon at the champagne bar.

For those that don’t have a ticket in hand, ALL Accor makes sure you don’t miss a moment of the action. Between May 18 and 30, members can use their Reward points–earned through stays, hotel bookings, and purchases across the ALL Accor ecosystem–to bid in exclusive auctions for some of the tournament's most sought-after seats. Starting from just 8,000 Reward points, these experiences turn everyday loyalty into once-in-a-lifetime access.

No matter if you’re courtside at the tournament or all the way across the globe, ALL Accor makes sure you receive their number-one treatment every step of the way. Find out more here.

Enter the Rassvet × Nike SB Zoom Tennis Classic.

Rassvet, the Paris-based skate and fashion imprint, brings its signature understated cool. No wild branding, no color explosions, just a subtle gradient, premium materials, and that matte leather upper elevating the simplest shape.

There’s a sense of movement here: night into day, session into after-hours, all built into the design. It’s a sneaker that doesn’t need to shout to stand out. Lived-in, never sloppy, and destined to look better the more you wear it.

This is calm confidence, the kind that comes from knowing what works, not trying to prove it. Rassvet and Nike SB have created a collab that nods quietly to skate culture, tennis roots, and, most importantly, the beauty of not overthinking it. Sometimes, that’s all you need.

The Rassvet × Nike SB Zoom Tennis Classic is due to drop on Nike's website later this summer.

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